2 ton+ grass with a haybine

It's not always about having the shiniest equipment, but having reliable equipment that is sized to get the job done in a timely fashion with the help available. Not everyone has access to free help to operate a fleet of 2N's and 2-star tedders, or the countless hours to tedd acres and acres of hay one windrow at a time.
 
Also... looks like you might be running stubs already.

You shouldn't be getting that much mud and crud on a flat field with dry ground (you say the ground is dry)

Do you have shoes on your haybine? I used to run a haybine for a friend of ours, he had an old 467 haybine with no shoes (skid plates) on it. That thing was terrible with a capital T in thin-stemmed grass. Thin-stemmed grass is meant to be cut a couple of inches off of the ground, up out of the crud zone.

Alfalfa and other coarse legumes often have more space between stems at ground level, and you can often cut them almost right at ground level.

If you look at your stubble on a thick growth of fine-stemmed grass, it will be long, regardless of how low you set the haybine. The difference is... if you set it high enough with skid plates, you stay out of the crud zone. You get long stubble, without as much plugging. If you leave the skid plates off and try to cut as low as possible...the crud blocks your cutting effectiveness, and you just push the stems over until the part that isn't in the crud zone gets cut...but this process leads to long stubble and plugging.
 
no has asked about condition of your cutter bar are the sickle sections sharp? is cutter bar pulling the hay off and not cutting clean? if the sickle sections aren't sharp that will make a difference. also how far off of the ground is your cutter bar?
 

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