Starting Issue

[steveM*#@]

Will get back to you on this. Its daylight now. I will go out and check it in a few minutes.

 

[quinnbrian]

Also, when I turn the key on. There is no light to the coil. It only comes on when I hit the thumb button or when it is cranking. I guess now I should review my wiring diagram and ck wiring.

No light when you first turn over the motor usually just mean the points where open when you turned the key on, it's when you turn the motor over the light should go on, and off....if the light stay on all the time..points are bad...if it doesn't come on at all ( the light) then there the points or condenser are bad..so I usually replace both...

 

[steveM*#@]

I had the wire from solenoid to ammeter on the starter side not battery side. I switched it to battery side. Now i have power to everything but coil when key is on. Now when the key is on, I have power to only one side of the two terminal white resistor block. The terminal that key switch is connected to lights up with key on, but not the terminal that leads to the coil. There is no light on coil when key is on.

 

[quinnbrian]

Jere are the wiring diagrams for the two different setups..6 volt and 12 volt..hope this will help.

 

[steveM*#@]

I had the wire from solenoid to ammeter on the starter side not battery side. I switched it to battery side. Now i have power to everything but coil when key is on. Now when the key is on, I have power to only one side of the two terminal white resistor block. The terminal that key switch is connected to lights up with key on, but not the terminal that leads to the coil. There is no light on coil when key is on.

Does this mean the white block is bad or is it because points and/or condenser are bad. Or is it something else.

 

[steveM*#@]

Jere are the wiring diagrams for the two different setups..6 volt and 12 volt..hope this will help.

Thank you. I used a diagram for an 8n front mount. Is that same as 9N? This getting very confusing.

 

[steveM*#@]

Thank you. I used a diagram for an 8n front mount. Is that same as 9N? This getting very confusing.

I will take a look at 9n diagram. It seems . different than the one I used. Thank you.

 

[HFJ]

Does this mean the white block is bad or is it because points and/or condenser are bad. Or is it something else.

yes, it sounds like the ceramic resistor (white block) is toast.

 

[deanostoybox]

Thank you. I used a diagram for an 8n front mount. Is that same as 9N? This getting very confusing.

Similar, however not exactly the same.

I will take a look at 9n diagram. It seems . different than the one I used. Thank you.

Don't get confused by different wiring diagrams. You have power now.

"Does this mean the white block is bad or is it because points and/or condenser are bad. Or is it something else."

I am guessing you have a meter as you say the coil is 0.9 Ohm. Forget the light, use the meter on DC Volts scale.

Anyway you are looking for actual voltage as when the points are closed there will be drop across any resistor/s in the circuit which may not cause the light to illuminate depending on the actual light that you have. Coming out of the ignition switch you should see battery voltage. At the top of the coil you should see battery voltage with the points open, and some lower value depending on drop of resistor/s, around half = or minus.

 

[steveM*#@]

After several hours of checking my wiring job, I have one thing new to report. I wired it per a wiring diagram for 8n w/Front Mount Distributor (12 Volt Conversion), by Jim Lawrence, 2006. Nothing was really wrong except for the issue I corrected this morning. However, the new observation is: the wire to the coil lights up with tester when the key is on. But when I connect the wire to the coil and test it (with key on), the light will not come on. I am trying to figure out what that means. That's where I am, still no start.

 

[steveM*#@]

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[deanostoybox]

After several hours of checking my wiring job, I have one thing new to report. I wired it per a wiring diagram for 8n w/Front Mount Distributor (12 Volt Conversion), by Jim Lawrence, 2006. Nothing was really wrong except for the issue I corrected this morning. However, the new observation is: the wire to the coil lights up with tester when the key is on. But when I connect the wire to the coil and test it (with key on), the light will not come on. I am trying to figure out what that means. That's where I am, still no start.

If your coil is 0.9 Ohm, lets just call it 1 Ohm to make the arithmetic easy, you need 4 Volts at the top of the coil in order to get the 4 Amps needed when points are closed. Will your test light illuminate at 4 Volts bright enough to see it? Does it flash bright dim or on off when cranking? Is your battery fully charged at this point, or is it run down from all the testing? Note that a 12V battery with a 6V starter can crank plenty fast but still not have enough voltage to make sufficient spark when cranking which is when it needs the strongest spark.

 

[steveM*#@]

After several hours of checking my wiring job, I have one thing new to report. I wired it per a wiring diagram for 8n w/Front Mount Distributor (12 Volt Conversion), by Jim Lawrence, 2006. Nothing was really wrong except for the issue I corrected this morning. However, the new observation is: the wire to the coil lights up with tester when the key is on. But when I connect the wire to the coil and test it (with key on), the light will not come on. I am trying to figure out what that means. That's where I am, still no start.

If your coil is 0.9 Ohm, lets just call it 1 Ohm to make the arithmetic easy, you need 4 Volts at the top of the coil in order to get the 4 Amps needed when points are closed. Will your test light illuminate at 4 Volts bright enough to see it? Does it flash bright dim or on off when cranking? Is your battery fully charged at this point, or is it run down from all the testing? Note that a 12V battery with a 6V starter can crank plenty fast but still not have enough voltage to make sufficient spark when cranking which is when it needs the strongest spark.

The test light does not illuminate at all when I connect the wire. I have battery voltage to the coil but loose light when I connect it to the coil. I will test for voltage after it is connected to see what it is. It does not flash when cranking. I charge battery before each session, it is a new battery. I believe the starter is fairly new and is 12V. I pulled it and had the drive checked. It was in excellent condition.

I am not sure what to do next.

 

[deanostoybox]

The test light does not illuminate at all when I connect the wire. I have battery voltage to the coil but loose light when I connect it to the coil. I will test for voltage after it is connected to see what it is. It does not flash when cranking. I charge battery before each session, it is a new battery. I believe the starter is fairly new and is 12V. I pulled it and had the drive checked. It was in excellent condition.

I am not sure what to do next.

What needs to be determined at this point is whether you are loosing power between ignition switch and coil (including ignition switch itself, or if there is something wrong with the distributor and or coil. If it does not flash when cranking, that points to a short in the distributor or points not opening. As you have had the distributor and coil off several times while troubleshooting, it is easy enough to imagine a fault sneaking in.

 

[steveM*#@]

Thank you. Yes, my thoughts as well.

 

[steveM*#@]

Okay, I started at key switch through the resistor to the end of the coil wire. I have battery voltage all the way. After I connect the coil wire, it drops from 12.58V to 3.24.

 

[deanostoybox]

Okay, I started at key switch through the resistor to the end of the coil wire. I have battery voltage all the way. After I connect the coil wire, it drops from 12.58V to 3.24.

If the 3.24 is at the top of coil, that pretty much confirms a short inside distributor or points not opening. Some common causes are the snap ring holding the breaker plate touching where it should not, the copper strap connecting the points to the concave head screw touching somewhere it should not, and the insulation where the concave head screw attaches to the breaker plate broken down.

 

[steveM*#@]

What is your thinking on the coil? I opened the distributor and checked the gap still perfect at .015. I noticed the snap ring was not seated correctly. I pushed down back in place. When I set the timing, I didn't touch that ring. How did it happen I wonder. I will inspect the points for the other items you mentioned. Thank you.

 

[deanostoybox]

What is your thinking on the coil? I opened the distributor and checked the gap still perfect at .015. I noticed the snap ring was not seated correctly. I pushed down back in place. When I set the timing, I didn't touch that ring. How did it happen I wonder. I will inspect the points for the other items you mentioned. Thank you.

0.9 Ohm coil with 3.24 Volts across it gives 3.6 Amps, close enough so coil is not suspect at this time. When you go through the distributor, use your ohmmeter to verify that there is no short with points open. Best to assemble the whole thing as a unit including coil and verify coil resistance points closed and open circuit points open, then install distributor with cap and coil assembled on the tractor as a unit. Then make sure spark plug wires are in correct order, and you should be back in business.

 

[Eman85]

If the wire going to the points is shorted the points can be gapped at anything but the voltage is going to ground before the points.