new owner of a 620, will try to update this as we go.

[DonB]

I have cleaned them with paint brush and gasoline

 

[valiant8086]

Ok the pulley is completely off. Didn't realize it would get that involved, but my brother didn't have any trouble. It's missing the bushing that goes on the shaft, and the outer race for the bearing is all beat in. Going to get the clutch pilot bearing, pulley, 3 pressure plate springs, 3 of the washers to make the springs heavier. Going to buy one of the clutch disks to put behind the pulley so we don't have to worry about taking that one apart, haven't decided about the other 3 disk/pad things. The clutch drive disk was flush on mine, but I'm hoping it was just the missing bushing that allowed that.

 

[valiant8086]

I can't find a clutch bearing. Steiner and all them have a clutch pilot bearing but it says it's used for the outer power steering pump bearing. The pulley has a missing bushing, we're addressing that. But inside there's a bearing with a bunch of rollers. This bearing has a bunch of room to slide on the shaft at least the way it is right now off the tractor. There's a race still stuck on the shaft on the tractor. The outer race is just a seal and it's all bent in. Called steiner and they said have to call a John Deere dealer. Went to Deere's parts catalogue and put in the tractor's serial number and it came up with no results. I thought Deere still sold parts for these tractors?

 

[wore out]

I can't find a clutch bearing. Steiner and all them have a clutch pilot bearing but it says it's used for the outer power steering pump bearing. The pulley has a missing bushing, we're addressing that. But inside there's a bearing with a bunch of rollers. This bearing has a bunch of room to slide on the shaft at least the way it is right now off the tractor. There's a race still stuck on the shaft on the tractor. The outer race is just a seal and it's all bent in. Called steiner and they said have to call a John Deere dealer. Went to Deere's parts catalogue and put in the tractor's serial number and it came up with no results. I thought Deere still sold parts for these tractors?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...JT04sNDc5ODojQ0FUQUxPRyw2MjkyNTpFUVVJUE1FTlRd

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/62925/referrer/navigation/pgId/192276

.

 

[Scott 730]

Went to Deere's parts catalogue and put in the tractor's serial number and it came up with no results. I thought Deere still sold parts for these tractors?

Not sure where you were on JD Parts site, but I have never been prompted to enter a serial number to search for parts.

 

[wore out]

Not sure where you were on JD Parts site, but I have never been prompted to enter a serial number to search for parts.

For certain newer equipment or engines you can search by S.N., that doesn't work with old things that use the scanned/.pdf parts catalogs.

 

[valiant8086]

Excellent. We have some progress now. I even found another thread on this forum, or perhaps the old version of it, that mentions a couple of part numbers. I've got the bushing all 3 springs, the washer things to add pressure to them, one spring that holds the cover on and the gasket for the brake pad thing, in my steiner cart and it's already at $92 and that's without any of the facings or disks or the bearing in question. I may skip the brake pad opperater gasket and the pulley cover pin, it wasn't leaking and the cover was hard to get on and off anyway. AT present, our plan is to replace one facing, the inner one that the pulley has to come off to access. Hopefully the other ones will either be ok or can hold out for a while. I may actually not even replace that facing, We suspect the new springs and washers, and that bushing, will take care of the problem.

 

[williaada]

When I went through and rebuilt our 630 it is easier to just replace all of the wear parts. It makes setting the clutch much easier. One other thing is check the dogs on the clutch most of them end up snapping. Usually there is a small crack in them and it gets larger with time. When you go to set the clutch I found it easier to tighten the nuts down snug and then back them off until you get the snap.

 

[valiant8086]

thanks I'm good to go, bought all facings and springs and the pressure plate washer things. Also the brake liner. Bushing too, but decided to hold off on the bearing for now, can't locate the inner race. Got the outer race and the retainer tracked down. I updated another thread in this forum for others looking for cross-reference numbers.

I didn't do dogs and t's because they look and feel in great shape. The pulley has obviously been off before since the bushing was missing, so in theory someone has already possibly done that.

Sort of regretting buying all the facings. I should have just bought the one that's hard to get to and then picked whichever of the old floating facings is in the best shape and put it back together. If it still had issues, could easily replace the other facings.

 

[valiant8086]

When I went through and rebuilt our 630 it is easier to just replace all of the wear parts. It makes setting the clutch much easier. One other thing is check the dogs on the clutch most of them end up snapping. Usually there is a small crack in them and it gets larger with time. When you go to set the clutch I found it easier to tighten the nuts down snug and then back them off until you get the snap.

Are you saying to move the lever forward and back while looscening the nuts until it makes the snap they demonstrate on Youtube? I imagine if they were snug like that, it wouldn't be able to release at all? Do you tighten them with the lever engaged or disengaged?

 

[williaada]

Went and looked at the youtube videos, and there is one video where the gent starts to tighten the nuts down and adjust for the snap. I have adjusted the clutch this way as well.

To adjust, the clutch has to be disengaged.

You are correct the clutch will not engage when things are all snugged up. I slowly start to loosen each nut up one turn at a time until the clutch starts to move and eventually engage and disengage to the snap desired. Towards the end I will tighten or loosen each nut a 1/4 turn. The goal is to have all of them tight equally.

 

[620 John]

thanks I'm good to go, bought all facings and springs and the pressure plate washer things. Also the brake liner. Bushing too, but decided to hold off on the bearing for now, can't locate the inner race. Got the outer race and the retainer tracked down. I updated another thread in this forum for others looking for cross-reference numbers.

I didn't do dogs and t's because they look and feel in great shape. The pulley has obviously been off before since the bushing was missing, so in theory someone has already possibly done that.

Sort of regretting buying all the facings. I should have just bought the one that's hard to get to and then picked whichever of the old floating facings is in the best shape and put it back together. If it still had issues, could easily replace the other facings.

It's not entirely a bad thing to replace all the discs. There's been lots of cases where one of the discs breaks and folds over and locks up the clutch. This happens mainly if someone parks the tractor while running with the clutch disengaged. And if it's still in gear when the clutch locks up things turn ugly pretty fast....

 

[valiant8086]

It's not entirely a bad thing to replace all the discs. There's been lots of cases where one of the discs breaks and folds over and locks up the clutch. This happens mainly if someone parks the tractor while running with the clutch disengaged. And if it's still in gear when the clutch locks up things turn ugly pretty fast....

Wow, I hadn't thought of that. But now I have started worrying about the little pin on the back. Mine has a deep notch in it, not quite halfway through it. I didn't bother buying it because I didn't understand how it's installed or removed, and the new ones all say you have to drill the hole bigger. But if that breaks off it'll be a bad day right?

 

[valiant8086]

Wow, I hadn't thought of that. But now I have started worrying about the little pin on the back. Mine has a deep notch in it, not quite halfway through it. I didn't bother buying it because I didn't understand how it's installed or removed, and the new ones all say you have to drill the hole bigger. But if that breaks off it'll be a bad day right?

After looking again at the pin, decided it was a good idea not to replace it, it's not nearly halfway through it. Everything arrived today. The clutch disk with the bonded facings on it is really rough textured. The two floating facings are smoother but have grooves on one side. Which way do the grooves go? The old ones don't have that.

 

[620 John]

After looking again at the pin, decided it was a good idea not to replace it, it's not nearly halfway through it. Everything arrived today. The clutch disk with the bonded facings on it is really rough textured. The two floating facings are smoother but have grooves on one side. Which way do the grooves go? The old ones don't have that.

Grooves make no difference they can be installed either way.

 

[valiant8086]

Wet lines I assume are hydraulic lines. There are square profile rings at each end that are easy to replace if they are leaking.

I think the next step is to tackle this. To clarify, it leaks out the end, right where the hose will go. We're thinking of draining and filling the hydraulic tank with the same stuff we use on the farm and then take the hose from one of our implements and plug and unplug it a few times and hope that seats the little pin valve thing.
The question first is, where do you drain the hydraulic? We found a slightly smaller bolt head on the bottom, near the back, just left of the drawbar and just in front of the lower bracket the drawbar slides left and right on. Is that it?

If I remember right, the other two are bigger, but the same size as each other, and both are for the transmission fluid.

For filling, it's the one right below the seat that's angled upward slightly and has a dipstick on it, right? For some reason, our manuals aren't making it super clear.

After we do that, if jabbing a hydraulic hose into it doesn't seat it, what should we try next?

 

[valiant8086]

In case you're just glancing, I have a question I just now posted in the previous post, this one's just a status update.

Clutch is back together yay! It has all new facings, including the bonded disk thing, all new springs, all washers on those springs and there's now a bushing in there, and a new brake liner on the outside.

We sanded the tar out of the metal disk parts. They all had glaze on them pretty bad. Greased the bearing and that zerk that's on the back and put it all back together. Got a nice loud click when engaging the clutch and a nice loud clang when disengaging. pulley doesn't make noise now, and applying the clutch is super smooth. Just push slowly forward until up to speed and the engine quiets down and then push it all the way forward to latch it. Just like the old timers say it should work. Sometimes it doesn't seem to want to go, and you can back off the lever and try again. Not sure what's up with that. Doesn't seem to happen when driving.

Calling this project a major success. The drivability took a huge boost with just this one thing.

 

[620 John]

I think the next step is to tackle this. To clarify, it leaks out the end, right where the hose will go. We're thinking of draining and filling the hydraulic tank with the same stuff we use on the farm and then take the hose from one of our implements and plug and unplug it a few times and hope that seats the little pin valve thing.
The question first is, where do you drain the hydraulic? We found a slightly smaller bolt head on the bottom, near the back, just left of the drawbar and just in front of the lower bracket the drawbar slides left and right on. Is that it?

If I remember right, the other two are bigger, but the same size as each other, and both are for the transmission fluid.

For filling, it's the one right below the seat that's angled upward slightly and has a dipstick on it, right? For some reason, our manuals aren't making it super clear.

After we do that, if jabbing a hydraulic hose into it doesn't seat it, what should we try next?

Are you talking the hydraulic lines going into the hydraulic pump under the hood?? I hope you can get lucky with removing them because mine were a @#$! to get out.

Which manual do you have?? The original JD om explains the oil drain plugs pretty good.

What are you jabbing a hydraulic hose into to seat??

 

[valiant8086]

Are you talking the hydraulic lines going into the hydraulic pump under the hood?? I hope you can get lucky with removing them because mine were a @#$! to get out.

Which manual do you have?? The original JD om explains the oil drain plugs pretty good.

What are you jabbing a hydraulic hose into to seat??

This discussion is for the auxiliary wet line coupler's for running cylinders and such on drawn equipment. We're good all the way to the actual couplers, just one coupler is leaking fluid out of it when the power troll pump is turned on. Like if we were going to run the round baler on this tractor, we need to connect the hoses to run the tail gate so we can let the bale fall out. One of the quick disconnect fittings is leaking right out the end the hose would go in. there's a ball back in there that must not be seating properly when there's no hose in it. We want to fix that problem. We've been leaving the pump out of gear as a result of the leak, but that means nonfunctioning lift arms.

Actually, I should know this already, but is there supposed to be pressure on that when the control lever is not being pressed forward or back? I know our massey Ferguson 253 doesn't leak all the time but if we accidentally move one of the levers it sprays fluid everywhere if there's nothing plugged into it.

We have the operator's manual and the service manual both from Jensales. It might be clear enough and we're just too dumb to understand it. The filler is easy enough. I found other people talking about that on the internet, but so far I haven't made a good understanding for sure where the drain is for that.

 

[Tx Jim]

One of the following links or similar new breakaway coupler should solve your tractors hyd leak. I'll bet this sites owner parts store(All States Parts) will sell you a complete, compatible breakaway coupler https://stores.allskidsteers.com/coupler-hydraulic-female-for-john-deere-replaces-oem-c14619/ https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-hydr-quick-coupler-socket-c14619/