Ford 8n starts but dies without choke

It won't idle now, I think im going to try and replace the spark plugs
I cant get it to idle
Hello ..844, welcome to YT! The M/S that was thrown out is Marvel Schebler the brand all Ford “N” series used. It was called a “clone” because the carb you have is an overseas produced “copy cat” carburetor. Some of them work fine while others can just never be made to run right. Not saying yours is one of those just throwing out the possibility. Completing the timed fuel test as directed out of the carb bowl drain plug ensures if the blame can be placed on the carburetor by ruling out inadequate fuel supply. Catching the fuel for the timed test should begin 5 seconds after the drain plug is removed so you are not measuring the fuel that is in the reserve of the carb fuel bowl. The screen in the elbow should stay in place, it is your best defense against debris that can cause problems with the sealing of the float needle valve and passing debris into the carb that can plug jetting passages.
Is there brand of carbuerator you recommend? That's the only thing that makes sense to me, the spark plug seem to be doing their job. Here's a picture of the carbuerator and the spark plugs.
 

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When you did the fuel flow test another thing to try is taking the fuel cap off. No air in, no fuel out. it sounds like you have enough flow. If it needs choke to stay running it's got a fuel problem most likely in carburetor. Either simple adjustment or a poorly made carburetor. Do you have the old carburetor?
I took off and cleaned out the carburator jets and put everything back on and it is still doing the same thing. It'll start with the choke out and run with the choke out but that's about it, and it just limps along like that. Do you know, from the front of the tractor, are the spark plugs supposed to go in this order 1243? Right now I think they are 1234, the guy I bought it from said he just put new plugs on it, could that be the problem?
 
The posted times aren’t showing up yet but you must have wrote this about replacing the fuel shut off before you read my reply #11.
Hey red sorry I didn't mean to go out of turn. I took everything back off and checked all of the screens and filters, didn't see anything wrong. Took off the carburater and cleaned it out, put back together. Still doin it.
From the front of the tractor, is the plug order supposed to be 1243? Because right now it is 1234 in that order, would that matter?
 
Hey red sorry I didn't mean to go out of turn. I took everything back off and checked all of the screens and filters, didn't see anything wrong. Took off the carburater and cleaned it out, put back together. Still doin it.
From the front of the tractor, is the plug order supposed to be 1243? Because right now it is 1234 in that order, would that matter?
From the front of the engine the cylinders/plugs are numbered 1-2-3-4. The firing order is 1-2-4-3. That is controlled by where #1 is located in the distributor cap and the direction the rotor turns is how the wires are placed in the distributor cap to match the firing order, from the #1 location.
 
From the front of the engine the cylinders/plugs are numbered 1-2-3-4. The firing order is 1-2-4-3. That is controlled by where #1 is located in the distributor cap and the direction the rotor turns is how the wires are placed in the distributor cap to match the firing order, from the #1 location.
 
Ok dang so it's on there right then. I'm not real sure what else to try then unless I got a bad carbuerator, friend came over and had thought it needed to be cleaned but I cleaned it and nothin changed
 
Hey red sorry I didn't mean to go out of turn. I took everything back off and checked all of the screens and filters, didn't see anything wrong. Took off the carburater and cleaned it out, put back together. Still doin it.
From the front of the tractor, is the plug order supposed to be 1243? Because right now it is 1234 in that order, would that matter?
Look at the reply 2 in the linked post, there are diagrams in this post that shows you where the spark plug wires go. The member who made this post recently passed away. RIP Tim!
Post with Pictograms
 
Ok dang so it's on there right then. I'm not real sure what else to try then unless I got a bad carbuerator, friend came over and had thought it needed to be cleaned but I cleaned it and nothin changed
But if you clean it with out poking out all the passageways your not doing all you need to do
 
Ok dang so it's on there right then. I'm not real sure what else to try then unless I got a bad carbuerator, friend came over and had thought it needed to be cleaned but I cleaned it and nothin changed
Cleaning is as old says poke a wire through EVERY PASSAGE, spray carb cleaner in it and give it a blast of compressed air, REPEAT again on each one. That means it is not just making sure there is not dirt in the carb bowl.
 
Cleaning is as old says poke a wire through EVERY PASSAGE, spray carb cleaner in it and give it a blast of compressed air, REPEAT again on each one. That means it is not just making sure there is not dirt in the carb bowl.
Yep poking them out and blowing them out with carb cleaner and air and then doing it again at least 3 times is the only way to get it right
 
Would changing the whole glass bowl shutoff assembly not fix this problem? Is there something else inside the tank that I need to do? When I took off the shutoff it seems flow freely out of the tank
When I pulled mine out it had rust chunks in it. When I put the new one in it filled with rust chunks. I eventually had to replace my tank.
 
Hey red sorry I didn't mean to go out of turn. I took everything back off and checked all of the screens and filters, didn't see anything wrong. Took off the carburater and cleaned it out, put back together. Still doin it.
From the front of the tractor, is the plug order supposed to be 1243? Because right now it is 1234 in that order, would that matter?
Ok dang so it's on there right then. I'm not real sure what else to try then unless I got a bad carbuerator, friend came over and had thought it needed to be cleaned but I cleaned it and nothin changed


I'm kind of confused with the above posts? Firing order/dist cap is 1 2 4 3, cyls numbered front to rear of motor 1-4

First one you seem to have wires for #2 and #3 mixed up in order on the dist. cap? Second one says "it's on there right then".

It will probably run with wires #2 and #3 mixed up but not right.

Might check the wires with an ohm meter at both ends if they go through the metal conduit to be sure of wires.
 
If your going to replace the spark plug get 4 NGK3112 plugs. There the best one any more for the N series tractors. I have them in 3 or more of my tractors
I also found CH H-10C plugs while looking for plugs for my riding mower. I've found NGK to be the best consistent plugs.
 
I cant get it to idle now, the spark plugs are all working fine. Would I be smart to get a new carbuerator?
One thing I have not seen mentioned in this thread is the manifold. Sometimes the manifold will get a hole between intake and exhaust. That can cause very hard to find problems. To check that take the manifold off, cover the intake ports with duct tape, and with the manifold upside down fill the intake with water through the hole where the carburetor mounts. If water comes out the exhaust ports there is a hole.
 
I'm kind of confused with the above posts? Firing order/dist cap is 1 2 4 3, cyls numbered front to rear of motor 1-4

First one you seem to have wires for #2 and #3 mixed up in order on the dist. cap? Second one says "it's on there right then".

It will probably run with wires #2 and #3 mixed up but not right.

Might check the wires with an ohm meter at both ends if they go through the metal conduit to be sure of wires.
I am a little confused on the order stuff as well. I'll put a picture on here of how it is right now and tell me if this is wrong. I haven't changed anything yet.
 

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My tractor had the same issue last time I had it running but I think it was a fuel flow issue. I also had an aftermarket carb and fuel bowl on it. I plan to rebuild the original carb and use it plus get a better quality fuel bowl. At this point I am going to rebuild the motor though and clean the whole thing up as I am sure it needs a valve job. Original 1948 motor thats never been opened and had a hard life on the farm.
 

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