Cylinder pin removal thoughts...

[wp6529]

2 plate of heavy steel some 1/2 inch chain and a bottle jack that works on it side. Cut a hole in one plate for the pin to pass thru chain the plates one on each side with the jack on the pin and crank away.

Seems a lot more material and effort than welding a bolt on the end of the pin and using a stud pulling ram from KO punch set.

 

[Mule Meat]

Quit playing around and get jiggy with it.
Just cut the shank behind the end of the tip.

 

[bc]

The modified wrench which works on cylinders with end caps up to about 4 1/4" dia. Perhaps I just need to mod a larger wrench to fit the current 4 7/8" cap and the boom cyl cap which is about 5 1/2" dia. ETA: It appears a 48" wrench will only get me to 5" capacity which would do this cylinder but not the boom one. HF also doesn't appear to have a 48" option and the cheap one I find is $80.

I see what you are talking about. Guess I haven't run into any cylinders with pin holes on the edge of the cap. Might look again tomorrow at my case CK backhoe to see. Maybe they are there and I just didn't know or have anything to fit them. Its been many moons ago but I kinda recall removing something with pin holes like that but I was just using them to hold a punch and drive it around with a 4 lb. hammer. I'm getting old enough now that I use vise grips to hold punches and chisels. I've missed too many times.

Can you take a piece of 1 inch wide flat bar, maybe 1/8" thick, more or less, and wrap it around the cylinder. Drill it for 2 bolts for pins and maybe weld a nut at each hole. Then at a point between the two pins bend a couple inches of the ends out and drill holes for a bolt to go through and tighten it tite around the end cap like a clamp. Then you could knock that around with a hammer. May not even need to weld some nuts or use the bolts/pins if the flat bar clamps tite enough. Just have to break it loose with the hammer to where you can turn it.

My leaking swing cylinders have a flat end/face plate with 2 pin holes there instead of on the edge. I think a piece of 1/4" thick flat bar about 12 inches long with holes drilled in it would work for my swing cylinder end plates.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Quit playing around and get jiggy with it.
Just cut the shank behind the end of the tip.

View attachment 69504

Lateral thinking at its best !

 

[wp6529]

Quit playing around and get jiggy with it.
Just cut the shank behind the end of the tip.

View attachment 69504

Yea, I'll give the air hammer a try before and perhaps after the bolt welding. It appears the weather may cooperate enough to get back at it today.

 

[stevieb49829]

I'm with you on the bolt welding idea. You can weld it on so well you can't pull it apart, and then just cut it off the pin when you succeed. Put some good pressure on it and whack the other side. If you use a big enough bolt, and leave some of the head free of weldment, once it moves a little you could try to turn it to help loosen it more. steve

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm with you on the bolt welding idea. You can weld it on so well you can't pull it apart, and then just cut it off the pin when you succeed. Put some good pressure on it and whack the other side. If you use a big enough bolt, and leave some of the head free of weldment, once it moves a little you could try to turn it to help loosen it more. steve

If one welds a bolt or rod to use with a hollow ram puller, be careful. As always stay out of the line of fire. I have seen such weld, rods, and bolts fail and things fly with great force. The danger won't be as high with the Greenlee knockout ram, but it is there. Pushing generally a bit safer.