630 ignition issues

[old bones]

Working to get the basket case 630 running. It's been "changed over" from POS ground to NEG ground. A one wire alternator has been installed.
I have don't have any spark. The new coil says it's internally resistored. New coil, distributer cap, plugs, graphite core plug wires.
The power wire to the coil is hot when the ignition switch is "ON". The power wire is hooked to the "+" side of the coil. The "-" terminal is hooked the distributer.
When the ignition switch is ON, I have 12.5v at the "-" side of the coil, and to both sides of the points (when the points are closed).
Trying to figure out what's wrong.
How should the coil be hooked up? Hot wire to the + coil terminal? Or should the power wire be hooked to the "-" coil terminal?
If the power wire to the coil is right, I'll try a new condenser.
Any other suggestions?

 

[wore out]

Working to get the basket case 630 running. It's been "changed over" from POS ground to NEG ground. A one wire alternator has been installed.
I have don't have any spark. The new coil says it's internally resistored. New coil, distributer cap, plugs, graphite core plug wires.
The power wire to the coil is hot when the ignition switch is "ON". The power wire is hooked to the "+" side of the coil. The "-" terminal is hooked the distributer.
When the ignition switch is ON, I have 12.5v at the "-" side of the coil, and to both sides of the points (when the points are closed).
Trying to figure out what's wrong.
How should the coil be hooked up? Hot wire to the + coil terminal? Or should the power wire be hooked to the "-" coil terminal?
If the power wire to the coil is right, I'll try a new condenser.
Any other suggestions?

The moveable/insulated point should read battery voltage with the points "open" and very near zero Volts with the points "closed".

If BOTH sides of the breaker points have battery voltage on them with the points "closed"your breaker plate is not grounded to the engine block.

If just the insulated point reads battery voltage when "closed" it would mean that the points aren't making contact with each other due to debris or a non-conductive oxide or oily film on them.

Check again and post back as to the voltage on both points with them "closed".

Also, what is ACTUALLY marked on your coil I have never seen one that stated "internally resisted".

Does it perhaps say "external resistor not required"?

 

[old bones]

The moveable/insulated point should read battery voltage with the points "open" and very near zero Volts with the points "closed".

If BOTH sides of the breaker points have battery voltage on them with the points "closed"your breaker plate is not grounded to the engine block.

If just the insulated point reads battery voltage when "closed" it would mean that the points aren't making contact with each other due to debris or a non-conductive oxide or oily film on them.

Check again and post back as to the voltage on both points with them "closed".

Also, what is ACTUALLY marked on your coil I have never seen one that stated "internally resisted".

Does it perhaps say "external resistor not required"?

I thought about the points not actually touching when closed, so I did check both sides when the points were closed. I had 12.5v. I'll check with ohm meter for continuity between base plate and block. If it shows open, not sure how to fix that, but I'll cross that bridge if I need to when I get there.
Thank you.

 

[old bones]

The moveable/insulated point should read battery voltage with the points "open" and very near zero Volts with the points "closed".

If BOTH sides of the breaker points have battery voltage on them with the points "closed"your breaker plate is not grounded to the engine block.

If just the insulated point reads battery voltage when "closed" it would mean that the points aren't making contact with each other due to debris or a non-conductive oxide or oily film on them.

Check again and post back as to the voltage on both points with them "closed".

Also, what is ACTUALLY marked on your coil I have never seen one that stated "internally resisted".

Does it perhaps say "external resistor not required"?

Update. I bought a new condenser and installed. I also bypassed the resistor, since the new coil has an internal resistor.

The screw on the ground side of the points was loose, so I set them at .022 after giving them a light sanding.

I hit the starter button and it started right up. I didn't even have to play with the carb (yet). I took it apart last week and put a kit in it, so it surprised me that it popped off about the third revolution.

This is the first time it's ran since it had the engine overhauled about 10 years ago. Before I tried to start it, I took the valve cover off and put a little oil on the valve stems and the tappets, then took off the transmission cover and poured some on the rod ends at the crank. Then I turned it over by hand until oil started dripping off the valve springs. Then I unhooked the coil and ran the starter until oil was running odd the tappets and could see oil coming out from between the rods and crank lobes. As I said, since it wasn't even started when they put in the new pistons (bored .040 over) and rings and bearings, I didn't want it to start up completely dry.

As a side note, the new coil came from Steiner Tractor, the part number is ABC509, and it DOES say "internally resisted" right on the coil. You can look it up, as I don't know how to attach a hot link on this forum.
The coil on my 1954 model 60 says "external resistor not required", and that one came from NAPA years ago.

Thanks for the advice. Very much appreciated.

 

[PJH]

Working to get the basket case 630 running. It's been "changed over" from POS ground to NEG ground. A one wire alternator has been installed.
I have don't have any spark. The new coil says it's internally resistored. New coil, distributer cap, plugs, graphite core plug wires.
The power wire to the coil is hot when the ignition switch is "ON". The power wire is hooked to the "+" side of the coil. The "-" terminal is hooked the distributer.
When the ignition switch is ON, I have 12.5v at the "-" side of the coil, and to both sides of the points (when the points are closed).
Trying to figure out what's wrong.
How should the coil be hooked up? Hot wire to the + coil terminal? Or should the power wire be hooked to the "-" coil terminal?
If the power wire to the coil is right, I'll try a new condenser.
Any other suggestions?

It should run no matter how the coil is wired. Granted, the coil should be fed positive and the distributor negative, but it should run either way. Start from scratch and work your way through it. The condenser is an evil issue. It is always good to try a new or proven condenser when there is a starting/running issue. I wish I was in your neighborhood. I would love to dig into your starting problem. We could make it a fun project.

Update. I bought a new condenser and installed. I also bypassed the resistor, since the new coil has an internal resistor.

The screw on the ground side of the points was loose, so I set them at .022 after giving them a light sanding.

I hit the starter button and it started right up. I didn't even have to play with the carb (yet). I took it apart last week and put a kit in it, so it surprised me that it popped off about the third revolution.

This is the first time it's ran since it had the engine overhauled about 10 years ago. Before I tried to start it, I took the valve cover off and put a little oil on the valve stems and the tappets, then took off the transmission cover and poured some on the rod ends at the crank. Then I turned it over by hand until oil started dripping off the valve springs. Then I unhooked the coil and ran the starter until oil was running odd the tappets and could see oil coming out from between the rods and crank lobes. As I said, since it wasn't even started when they put in the new pistons (bored .040 over) and rings and bearings, I didn't want it to start up completely dry.

As a side note, the new coil came from Steiner Tractor, the part number is ABC509, and it DOES say "internally resisted" right on the coil. You can look it up, as I don't know how to attach a hot link on this forum.
The coil on my 1954 model 60 says "external resistor not required", and that one came from NAPA years ago.

Thanks for the advice. Very much appreciated.

Good news and thanks for the update!

I am certainly not an expert, but I think that there is a downside to the "internally resisted" coil. With an external resister ahead of the coil, the external resister is shunted while the starter button is pressed giving a theoretical 12 volts to the coil while starting. The starter load drops the voltage of course, but the theory is full available battery voltage to the coil while starting. When the starter button is released after the engine starts, the external ignition resister drops the coil voltage to a number that won't overheat the coil. On a super cold winter morning with a bunch of hungry cattle watching, every little boost will help an engine start. I even turn the hydraulic pump off for startup on a super cold morning. Bottom line - If it starts and runs, I would not change anything. Again - thanks for the update - we learn from each other. It sounds like you're gonna have a "like new" 630!