Truck brakes

[john in la]

The rock auto post got me thinking about my pickup brakes. Mechanic that does my oil change and tire rotation told me brakes still look good last time but it has me worried with the amount of miles on the truck so I am going to take a wheel off and have a look see for myself.

2015 Ram
125,000 miles
Only time the rims been off truck was to rotate or replace tires.
Used back and forth to work and pull my single axle boat trailer once a month.

What should I be looking to do for a complete job.
I can get prostop basic OEM replacement pads and rotors (# KOE2163 and KOE2172) for all 4 wheels at auto zone for less than rock auto time you figure in the shipping and not much more than the cheapest parts out there.
I’ve heard good things about the prostop brand.
I don’t have a mic to check the old rotors so I figure on just replacing them along with the pads.
Really not looking to break into the fluid side (calipers hoses fluid flush other things) but on the fence as I don’t want to go back into it 10,000 miles down the road.

 

[DoubleO7]

If all are the hat style rotors I would replace them along with the pads.
Your not in the everything rusted up belt so I would not do the calipers.
I would lube the caliper pins tho.

 

[Olfolks]

If the rotors are not groved or the truck doesn’t shake or vibrate when stopping now I would leave the factory rotors on. As far as auto zone brakes I wouldn’t use them on a car I was taking to the scrap yard. Get a good set of wagoners or ray pads and or shoes . With the AZ brakes you will doing it again in 6 months

 

[Blackhole49]

The rock auto post got me thinking about my pickup brakes. Mechanic that does my oil change and tire rotation told me brakes still look good last time but it has me worried with the amount of miles on the truck so I am going to take a wheel off and have a look see for myself.

2015 Ram
125,000 miles
Only time the rims been off truck was to rotate or replace tires.
Used back and forth to work and pull my single axle boat trailer once a month.

What should I be looking to do for a complete job.
I can get prostop basic OEM replacement pads and rotors (# KOE2163 and KOE2172) for all 4 wheels at auto zone for less than rock auto time you figure in the shipping and not much more than the cheapest parts out there.
I’ve heard good things about the prostop brand.
I don’t have a mic to check the old rotors so I figure on just replacing them along with the pads.
Really not looking to break into the fluid side (calipers hoses fluid flush other things) but on the fence as I don’t want to go back into it 10,000 miles down the road.

I have been buying all my brake parts from Detroit Axle for years with good results. If it were mine and I had plans on keeping it, at that mileage, I would do rotors and pads on all 4 if it needs anything. They also sell calipers and wheel bearings.

 

[john in la]

If the rotors are not groved or the truck doesn’t shake or vibrate when stopping now I would leave the factory rotors on. As far as auto zone brakes I wouldn’t use them on a car I was taking to the scrap yard. Get a good set of wagoners or ray pads and or shoes . With the AZ brakes you will doing it again in 6 months

Maybe I didn’t explain it well enough the first time.
I don’t plan to use AZ brand parts.
I am looking at Prostop parts.
They are sold by AZ rock auto summit jegs and other parts places. AZ just has the best price time you figure in shipping heavy rotors from the online places.

 

[Leroy]

The rock auto post got me thinking about my pickup brakes. Mechanic that does my oil change and tire rotation told me brakes still look good last time but it has me worried with the amount of miles on the truck so I am going to take a wheel off and have a look see for myself.

2015 Ram
125,000 miles
Only time the rims been off truck was to rotate or replace tires.
Used back and forth to work and pull my single axle boat trailer once a month.

What should I be looking to do for a complete job.
I can get prostop basic OEM replacement pads and rotors (# KOE2163 and KOE2172) for all 4 wheels at auto zone for less than rock auto time you figure in the shipping and not much more than the cheapest parts out there.
I’ve heard good things about the prostop brand.
I don’t have a mic to check the old rotors so I figure on just replacing them along with the pads.
Really not looking to break into the fluid side (calipers hoses fluid flush other things) but on the fence as I don’t want to go back into it 10,000 miles down the road.

My truck is a 2003 Dakota and has been setting for a year as NO brakes. Driving I thought it brole a brake line, No it blew a caliper as the pads and rotor were wore too thin. Local mechanic says replace all parts, caliper, rotor and pads on all 4 wheels. Says brake lines and master cylinder should be god. So I just got all the parts from KOI {Kentucky, Ohio and Indiana} I live in Ohio and parts $100 cheaper than other place quoted mr last year Now just waiting untill he gets a chance to do the job. Truck has over 300,000 miles on it. When I bought it was supposed to have had all new brakes that would have lasted me the rest of my days and was supposed to have had new parking brake cables, found out it had none. I am 80+ now so rest of my days are likely to br short. Back when I was working driving 150 mile a day stop and go driving 6 days a week I was replacing the pads every week.

 

[john in la]

If all are the hat style rotors I would replace them along with the pads.
Your not in the everything rusted up belt so I would not do the calipers.
I would lube the caliper pins tho.

I guess you would consider them hat style.
I know the rear are drum and rotor combo.
The emergency brakes use the drum part.

 

[DoubleO7]

The emergency brakes use the drum part.

Hat style to me means the rotor part slides over the lug studs and is not also the hub.
My avalanche has those funky little brake drum/rotors too.

 

[504]

My 2014 Ram 2 wheel drive has 220,000. Miles on it and the brakes show half pad for wear. Front hub bearings and a water pump have been replaced and a few sets of tires. When it needs brakes I will replace the calipers with loaded ones and rotors. If I thought I could buy the same brand that Ram used I would buy them from the dealer.

 

[john in la]

Hat style to me means the rotor part slides over the lug studs and is not also the hub.
My avalanche has those funky little brake drum/rotors too.

Then yes they are hat style.
Only thing holds the rotors on is the lug nuts.
The hub is a separate piece.

 

[used red MN]

If all are the hat style rotors I would replace them along with the pads.
Your not in the everything rusted up belt so I would not do the calipers.
I would lube the caliper pins tho.

(Edit: I see while I was typing my 1st concern was addressed) Just FYI, I believe “hat” is a “slang” term has been thrown out here. I actually don’t know and can’t find the actual term for the type of rotors he is talking about, What he means is the type of rotors that mount on the wheel hub with a slip fit and can be removed without disturbing the actual wheel bearings. A 2015 Ram will definitely have this style. I was going to try to put a date on when the integrated hub and rotor style were mostly discontinued for use on vehicles, I was going to say 1990, but I remembered that 1/2 ton 2WD pickups in the 90s still used them. I would guess that 2000 model and later would be a pretty good bet.
The statement that Auto Zone brakes will have you redoing them in 6 months comes more from that poster wanting to inflect greater support for what he feels is better brands. I have nothing against the brands he has mentioned they are indeed both long known “names” in brakes with quality products. I would however not suggest buying the cheapest level of pads available. However, if the brakes are installed correctly, there are not other issues and they are used under normal service even the cheapest pads should last at least two years. One thing I have experienced is if you get the “high performance” ceramic pads they are more prone to squeak or squeal. They also wear rotors faster which is less of a concern then it used to be since rotors are more commonly replaced with the pads these days.

 

[Leroy]

My truck is a 2003 Dakota and has been setting for a year as NO brakes. Driving I thought it brole a brake line, No it blew a caliper as the pads and rotor were wore too thin. Local mechanic says replace all parts, caliper, rotor and pads on all 4 wheels. Says brake lines and master cylinder should be god. So I just got all the parts from KOI {Kentucky, Ohio and Indiana} I live in Ohio and parts $100 cheaper than other place quoted mr last year Now just waiting untill he gets a chance to do the job. Truck has over 300,000 miles on it. When I bought it was supposed to have had all new brakes that would have lasted me the rest of my days and was supposed to have had new parking brake cables, found out it had none. I am 80+ now so rest of my days are likely to br short. Back when I was working driving 150 mile a day stop and go driving 6 days a week I was replacing the pads every week.

 

[Leroy]

Before you think you are not going to replace the calipers check to see how thin the pads and rotors are and if the caliper piston is pushed into the caliper too far as that is what caused all my brake trubles and being pads and rotors the caliper piston was pushed too far back into the caliper and that is why the caliper blew. If the caliper piston is NOT pushed in to far you can get by without replacing the calipers. I was not that lucky. No noticable brake problems untill the caliper came apart when I thought a brake line had busted as I had just hit a very rough spot in the road.. Mecanick says the caliper piston is pushed too far into tte caliper just replacing the pads and rotor would make the caliper start leaking brake fluid sp cheaper to replace all calipers when replacing the rotor and pads than just the one rotor that came apart. Untill it came apart I did not notice any problems with stoping or vibration. What you are thinkig are good calipers may in fact be ready to come apart.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Before you think you are not going to replace the calipers check to see how thin the pads and rotors are and if the caliper piston is pushed into the caliper too far as that is what caused all my brake trubles and being pads and rotors the caliper piston was pushed too far back into the caliper and that is why the caliper blew. If the caliper piston is NOT pushed in to far you can get by without replacing the calipers. I was not that lucky. No noticable brake problems untill the caliper came apart when I thought a brake line had busted as I had just hit a very rough spot in the road.. Mecanick says the caliper piston is pushed too far into tte caliper just replacing the pads and rotor would make the caliper start leaking brake fluid sp cheaper to replace all calipers when replacing the rotor and pads than just the one rotor that came apart. Untill it came apart I did not notice any problems with stoping or vibration. What you are thinkig are good calipers may in fact be ready to come apart.

caliper piston was pushed in too far... What!

The DEAL! and the big mistake most make are do not conceive. When retracting the caliper piston open the bleeder the bleeder has to be free to flow. Install a hose over the bleeder into a drain cup/bottle/tank what ever you can come up with. Open the bleeder push the piston in it should retract with little to moderate resistance if it resist its and issue. My tool of choice is a screwdriver maybe 10" long are shorter. If room are accessibility is restricted a C clamp either way I need to know how much force it takes to retract the piston. This is where I make the call to replace the caliper. I do have to keep in mind I am moving the piston and not fighting the slides.

You do this to a new/rebuilt caliper chuck it in a vice confirm there are no restrictions retracting the piston. You check every part of a replacement and believe me they do all kinds of junk repairs to a remand caliper. Its not uncommon to reject a remand caliper.

I don't own a fancy tool to retract a caliper I need to feel it retract those tools are for pad slappers. And lets not forget while checking a replacement to put a wood block in it as to not blow the piston out. Yes you will need to apply air to push the piston out. Keep in mind the piston o-ring is designed to relieve once pressure is taken off you should not have to pry the wood block out.

You cannot do this repair without pushing the piston in and it needs to go all the way in that's mind blowing to think otherwise. All the junk that accumulates in the caliper can become a hidden issue and you will find it most all the time if you are conscience of your work.

See #4

https://www.irjet.net/archives/V6/i3/IRJET-V6I397.pdf

 

[Janicholson]

caliper piston was pushed in too far... What!

The DEAL! and the big mistake most make are do not conceive. When retracting the caliper piston open the bleeder the bleeder has to be free to flow. Install a hose over the bleeder into a drain cup/bottle/tank what ever you can come up with. Open the bleeder push the piston in it should retract with little to moderate resistance if it resist its and issue. My tool of choice is a screwdriver maybe 10" long are shorter. If room are accessibility is restricted a C clamp either way I need to know how much force it takes to retract the piston. This is where I make the call to replace the caliper. I do have to keep in mind I am moving the piston and not fighting the slides.

You do this to a new/rebuilt caliper chuck it in a vice confirm there are no restrictions retracting the piston. You check every part of a replacement and believe me they do all kinds of junk repairs to a remand caliper. Its not uncommon to reject a remand caliper.

I don't own a fancy tool to retract a caliper I need to feel it retract those tools are for pad slappers. And lets not forget while checking a replacement to put a wood block in it as to not blow the piston out. Yes you will need to apply air to push the piston out. Keep in mind the piston o-ring is designed to relieve once pressure is taken off you should not have to pry the wood block out.

You cannot do this repair without pushing the piston in and it needs to go all the way in that's mind blowing to think otherwise. All the junk that accumulates in the caliper can become a hidden issue and you will find it most all the time if you are conscience of your work.

See #4

https://www.irjet.net/archives/V6/i3/IRJET-V6I397.pdf

A hand screwed or leverage valve spring compressor tool works well for me. Jim

 

[Tgrasher]

As with any topic, opinions vary, so here's my 2 cents. From past experiences with calipers, any time after 100,000 miles, that they get moved (new pads move the working path of the seal) they will fail not long after. Usually from corrosion caused by water as I live in a humid part of the country. My 2010 Ram with 105,000 miles just received new everything on the brakes by me and should outlast me.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

2 things: what Hobo and Leroy just above are spot on with advice. Secondly, my advice is to make sure you are buying the highest quality parts you can get. Parts houses usually sell their cheapest stuff because that what everyone wants. I once made the mistake of not asking for the higher quality parts and got cheap rotors that warped real bad the first hard stop I had to make. I took them back back, paid the difference, and put the better ones on- no more problem. Always making sure the caliper slides and pistons move freely is of the utmost importance, and can't be said enough. Mark.

 

[john in la]

caliper piston was pushed in too far... What!

The DEAL! and the big mistake most make are do not conceive. When retracting the caliper piston open the bleeder the bleeder has to be free to flow. Install a hose over the bleeder into a drain cup/bottle/tank what ever you can come up with. Open the bleeder push the piston in it should retract with little to moderate resistance if it resist its and issue. My tool of choice is a screwdriver maybe 10" long are shorter. If room are accessibility is restricted a C clamp either way I need to know how much force it takes to retract the piston. This is where I make the call to replace the caliper. I do have to keep in mind I am moving the piston and not fighting the slides.

You do this to a new/rebuilt caliper chuck it in a vice confirm there are no restrictions retracting the piston. You check every part of a replacement and believe me they do all kinds of junk repairs to a remand caliper. Its not uncommon to reject a remand caliper.

I don't own a fancy tool to retract a caliper I need to feel it retract those tools are for pad slappers. And lets not forget while checking a replacement to put a wood block in it as to not blow the piston out. Yes you will need to apply air to push the piston out. Keep in mind the piston o-ring is designed to relieve once pressure is taken off you should not have to pry the wood block out.

You cannot do this repair without pushing the piston in and it needs to go all the way in that's mind blowing to think otherwise. All the junk that accumulates in the caliper can become a hidden issue and you will find it most all the time if you are conscience of your work.

See #4

https://www.irjet.net/archives/V6/i3/IRJET-V6I397.pdf

If I find I need to replace the calibers I assume replacing the rubber hose also would be the way to go.
Is bleeding the brakes pretty straight forward. Start at farthest and work to closest by having someone pump the brakes.
Or am I going to have problems with some proportionate values in the system.