to 20 overheating

[glennster]

ok so i have this hand me down fergie to 20 that several people had and messed with it. last owner bought it, put new tires on it and found out the hup trans had gears damaged and ended up putting a used trans in it. it sat in his garage for several years. i ended up with it in a trade for labor. i changed all the fluids, got the tractor running. discovered it had a ford n series radiator that leaked, and a hitch off an n, also had the small pto which i updated. also valve guides were shot so i took the head in to our engine guy that does hot rod motors for my body shop. replaced all valves, guides and seats, machined head too and stitched a couple cracks. . checked the deck on the block and that was straight. put the tractor on my woods rm600 mower and the temperature will climb within about 20 minutes to 200 and still going. i did put a new thermostat in and it is working correctly. pressure checked the radiator cap and it is in range at 4 psi. when i pressure check the cooling system, i pressurize to 4 psi and it will drop within a minute to zero. the tractor was missing the radiator shroud, so i put a 12v cooling fan on it. the block is clean , no sediment build up. the tractor does not leak antifreeze, nor is there coolant in the oil. i will post pics of the spark plugs with a compression test. . also on the right side of the tractor, there is a pipe coming out from under the tractor, what is that for?? i do have the operators manual and shop manual. i am about ready to pull the head again, but i do not know if the problem will be there.

 

[glennster]

ok so i have this hand me down fergie to 20 that several people had and messed with it. last owner bought it, put new tires on it and found out the hup trans had gears damaged and ended up putting a used trans in it. it sat in his garage for several years. i ended up with it in a trade for labor. i changed all the fluids, got the tractor running. discovered it had a ford n series radiator that leaked, and a hitch off an n, also had the small pto which i updated. also valve guides were shot so i took the head in to our engine guy that does hot rod motors for my body shop. replaced all valves, guides and seats, machined head too and stitched a couple cracks. . checked the deck on the block and that was straight. put the tractor on my woods rm600 mower and the temperature will climb within about 20 minutes to 200 and still going. i did put a new thermostat in and it is working correctly. pressure checked the radiator cap and it is in range at 4 psi. when i pressure check the cooling system, i pressurize to 4 psi and it will drop within a minute to zero. the tractor was missing the radiator shroud, so i put a 12v cooling fan on it. the block is clean , no sediment build up. the tractor does not leak antifreeze, nor is there coolant in the oil. i will post pics of the spark plugs with a compression test. . also on the right side of the tractor, there is a pipe coming out from under the tractor, what is that for?? i do have the operators manual and shop manual. i am about ready to pull the head again, but i do not know if the problem will be there.

here are the pics

 

[Ericp351]

Assume you re-torqued head. I'd start there, AFTER a simple comp. test. Signs of blow0by in coolant? Long run- electric fan poor substitute for fan or upgraded fan + shroud. 4 psi cap OK, most now have 7 PSI. I trust you blew out rad fins with air. Lastly- if unknown to you- make shure water pump really pumps. Good luck.

 

[Jim L WA]

If by chance you put the thermostat in backwards it will do that. Don't ask me how I know that.

That pipe is plumbed to the hydraulic test port. Someone in the past was using hydraulic pressure for something other than the 3 point lift.

 

[glennster]

If by chance you put the thermostat in backwards it will do that. Don't ask me how I know that.

That pipe is plumbed to the hydraulic test port. Someone in the past was using hydraulic pressure for something other than the 3 point lift.

thermostat is in correct. were there ever problems with the water pump impellers? i will re check coolant flow and see what it looks like.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Does the new thermostat have a bypass hole in it ?
Without this crucial hole an air pocket will form and lead to unexplained overheating. The fix is simple , a 3/16ths hole drilled into the flange .

 

[glennster]

Does the new thermostat have a bypass hole in it ?
Without this crucial hole an air pocket will form and lead to unexplained overheating. The fix is simple , a 3/16ths hole drilled into the flange .

i will pull the t-stat and check, it is opening tho as i am getting hot af in the top of the radiator. i checked the temp with a laser and also a thermometer.