My new Massey Ferguson 135 diesel!

[bulldog6276]

Hello everyone!!!!! I’ve never owned a tractor and have been reading up on this tractor I just bought. Some have went as far as to say “it is one of the best tractors ever made” seeing that quote or something similar to it made me pull the trigger on this guy. However I do have some questions.
I am mechanically inclined Auto tech for close to 15 years at a mom and pop shop and I’m sure I could figure all this out but I think it’s best to ask before I just take stuff apart.
1. Got a pretty good oil leak from rear main seal area. I know the tractor has to be split to put the rear main in however I have seen some folks say it could be a pan gasket as well and im not sure if I need to split the tractor or not to do this? It’s a pretty heavy leak so it needs to be fixed soon. But I’ll keep oil in it until I get a chance to fix it.

2. Changing the Oil, a lot of folks say rotella 15/40 and a 837595M91 oil filter. Any reason to not use a Napa 1188 filter?

3. Fuel filters same as above can I use Napa brand? Can I convert it to a spin on filter? Maybe that filters better?

4. Where or what brand can I get some tie rod ends? Assuming that’s what they are called on a tractor. (The end of the long bar that come from the steering box)

5. The steering box seems to have a little play in it, is that something to be concerned with? Or can just let it ride?

6. Anything service wise I should do to the tractor before really using it? I put a new battery in with new terminals today, and I put new front tires and tubes on it yesterday.

Thank y’all so much!

over all I’m tickled and thrilled to own my first tractor, I have more questions on how to properly plow a field. As well I have most implements. The tractor came with a roto tiller. I have a turn plow (dual 16s I think) , a harrow, a root rake, a bush hog, and a box blade. I got all my implements from my great grand paw my dad still has both his tractors (8n and a 9n)

1. Do I need to go back to the beginning of the row before I drop the plow or can I just go back and forth like mowing a yard?

2. Should I turn it then use the harrow?

3. I’m planting sunflowers on around a acre first if that helps anything

 

[bulldog6276]

1970 Massey 135, for some reason I didn’t post that and don’t know how to edit it on my phone so I apologize for that

 

[Ericp351]

That oil, + NAPPA filter = A OK. You have power for 5 foot brush hog. No need to go to spin on fuel filters, service what ya got- never queer the deal. I plow, then disk. You can use 3 bottom, I moved my T0 20 2 bottom to my 35 as reqd. You do not plow back N forth , like mowing. A search of old books (Interweb) will yield pattern suggestions. Set up you plow/ links well- time well spent. Steering play = normal- should be same, L vs. Rt. Check for anything bent. I like 1/4 inch toe. Keep her greased, adj. clutch, learn Draft Control + enjoy!

 

[Ericp351]

Post script- I re read. With 1 acre you don't need "plow efficiency", as you are done as the tractor warms up. Practice 1 direction, say East to west, even if that means driving back with plow raised. Only 1 acre ? Maybe "plow to center": make pass E-W, North side, lift- plow back W to E, South side, et cetera. 2 Bottom more than enough. Then a disk job and your bed is prettier than a sissy using a Roto-Tiller. Rock on.

 

[Ericp351]

Post script- I re read. With 1 acre you don't need "plow efficiency", as you are done as the tractor warms up. Practice 1 direction, say East to west, even if that means driving back with plow raised. Only 1 acre ? Maybe "plow to center": make pass E-W, North side, lift- plow back W to E, South side, et cetera. 2 Bottom more than enough. Then a disk job and your bed is prettier than a sissy using a Roto-Tiller. Rock on.

 

[bulldog6276]

That oil, + NAPPA filter = A OK. You have power for 5 foot brush hog. No need to go to spin on fuel filters, service what ya got- never queer the deal. I plow, then disk. You can use 3 bottom, I moved my T0 20 2 bottom to my 35 as reqd. You do not plow back N forth , like mowing. A search of old books (Interweb) will yield pattern suggestions. Set up you plow/ links well- time well spent. Steering play = normal- should be same, L vs. Rt. Check for anything bent. I like 1/4 inch toe. Keep her greased, adj. clutch, learn Draft Control + enjoy!

Thank you so much!!!!! I’m thinking I’m gonna have a good time messing with this, we own a total of 160 acres but 95% is cutover or woods, eventually I’d like to have 3-4 acres plant stuff on.

Post script- I re read. With 1 acre you don't need "plow efficiency", as you are done as the tractor warms up. Practice 1 direction, say East to west, even if that means driving back with plow raised. Only 1 acre ? Maybe "plow to center": make pass E-W, North side, lift- plow back W to E, South side, et cetera. 2 Bottom more than enough. Then a disk job and your bed is prettier than a sissy using a Roto-Tiller. Rock on.

 

[Ericp351]

Last note- Use a proper Draw Bar- flipping ain't fun. Roll Protection on you rig is for sissies, right? You will probably be looking for rocks and neighbors to pull out, right!? Got a great deal on my 35. Estate. 5 tractors went at auction. Mine killed him. Went cheap. Smarts pays off. Enjoy!!

 

[MF#1]

Did your Dad ever use a turning plow? If so let him either show or tell you how to set up your plow for best results. Don't know your soil type but pulling two 16's in clay that hasn't been plowed before will be a challenge for that tractor especially if your rear tires are not loaded with calcium chloride. If your farm is rocky you may want to give it a walk-over and see how deep the soil is before you drop that plow. You can be very unpleasantly surprised if you "assume" it will plow easily. The best thing you can buy is an Operators Manual for your tractor, preferably one printed by MF/AGCO, which they sell on their website. Great tractor, Good Luck with it!

 

[bulldog6276]

Did your Dad ever use a turning plow? If so let him either show or tell you how to set up your plow for best results. Don't know your soil type but pulling two 16's in clay that hasn't been plowed before will be a challenge for that tractor especially if your rear tires are not loaded with calcium chloride. If your farm is rocky you may want to give it a walk-over and see how deep the soil is before you drop that plow. You can be very unpleasantly surprised if you "assume" it will plow easily. The best thing you can buy is an Operators Manual for your tractor, preferably one printed by MF/AGCO, which they sell on their website. Great tractor, Good Luck with it!

He didn’t use it enough to really know it. It is just about assured it will have a good bit of rock on it, I don’t know if it’s plausible to do it this way but I was just gonna go slow, low range 2nd, and then only do half a draft or can you do that? The grounds never been tilled and has just recently been cleared of trees which should help

 

[MF#1]

Old roots can be as bad as rocks when plowing Depending on how well the trees were removed I would suggest using the harrow first to get it leveled up, I wouldn't bother with a plow until I had all of the old roots and such picked up and assess how close the rocks are to the surface long before I would sink a plow in that ground, it will plow hard regardless. Yes you can plow shallower using the Draft control but it takes a little getting used to. And "NO" on the rotiller until you sort out the rock situation.

 

[bulldog6276]

Old roots can be as bad as rocks when plowing Depending on how well the trees were removed I would suggest using the harrow first to get it leveled up, I wouldn't bother with a plow until I had all of the old roots and such picked up and assess how close the rocks are to the surface long before I would sink a plow in that ground, it will plow hard regardless. Yes you can plow shallower using the Draft control but it takes a little getting used to. And "NO" on the rotiller until you sort out the rock situation.

That sounds good with me!!!! They used a excavator on it and I mow it, it’s part of the yard, no big rocks right at the surface however that don’t mean no big rocks under the surface, so it sounds like harrow it up real good and see what the dirt looks like after that before I plow?

 

[bulldog6276]

Old roots can be as bad as rocks when plowing Depending on how well the trees were removed I would suggest using the harrow first to get it leveled up, I wouldn't bother with a plow until I had all of the old roots and such picked up and assess how close the rocks are to the surface long before I would sink a plow in that ground, it will plow hard regardless. Yes you can plow shallower using the Draft control but it takes a little getting used to. And "NO" on the rotiller until you sort out the rock situation.

I do have a box blade with tines and for some reason I think I have a attachment that has three splines that dig into the dirt kinda like a ripper but I’ll have to look around for that one. Not sure if ripping the ground a bit would help at all,

 

[MF#1]

IF rocks are a problem I would hope that you have trip plows or at least a shear bolt on them. When you hit a big rock or ledge without either type then usually something breaks, don't ask me how I know Regardless, you're going to be trying to plow a mine field so proceed with caution! The harrow "probably" won't show the deeper, larger rocks since it cuts shallower. A long metal rod can be used to probe the field but it takes time and energy, well worth it if it prevents the plow from breaking.

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello everyone!!!!! I’ve never owned a tractor and have been reading up on this tractor I just bought. Some have went as far as to say “it is one of the best tractors ever made” seeing that quote or something similar to it made me pull the trigger on this guy. However I do have some questions.
I am mechanically inclined Auto tech for close to 15 years at a mom and pop shop and I’m sure I could figure all this out but I think it’s best to ask before I just take stuff apart.
1. Got a pretty good oil leak from rear main seal area. I know the tractor has to be split to put the rear main in however I have seen some folks say it could be a pan gasket as well and im not sure if I need to split the tractor or not to do this? It’s a pretty heavy leak so it needs to be fixed soon. But I’ll keep oil in it until I get a chance to fix it.

2. Changing the Oil, a lot of folks say rotella 15/40 and a 837595M91 oil filter. Any reason to not use a Napa 1188 filter?

3. Fuel filters same as above can I use Napa brand? Can I convert it to a spin on filter? Maybe that filters better?

4. Where or what brand can I get some tie rod ends? Assuming that’s what they are called on a tractor. (The end of the long bar that come from the steering box)

5. The steering box seems to have a little play in it, is that something to be concerned with? Or can just let it ride?

6. Anything service wise I should do to the tractor before really using it? I put a new battery in with new terminals today, and I put new front tires and tubes on it yesterday.

Thank y’all so much!

over all I’m tickled and thrilled to own my first tractor, I have more questions on how to properly plow a field. As well I have most implements. The tractor came with a roto tiller. I have a turn plow (dual 16s I think) , a harrow, a root rake, a bush hog, and a box blade. I got all my implements from my great grand paw my dad still has both his tractors (8n and a 9n)

1. Do I need to go back to the beginning of the row before I drop the plow or can I just go back and forth like mowing a yard?

2. Should I turn it then use the harrow?

3. I’m planting sunflowers on around a acre first if that helps anything

NAPA/WIX fuel filters are fine. Just be careful installing them to get the top seal in the correct location, up in the housing, not down inside the element.

 

[Ericp351]

OK advice + insights above, but lets be "1/2 full". I trust an adult on a fine 35 HP tractor can handle plowing up an acre (or 2, or 20) on private land A Ok, with a bit of time, even with an ill fitted plow, et cetera. Something about "never let the ideal become the enemy of the good..." Post script: Try not to plow Drunk and in the dark, enjoy, and rock on!

 

[bulldog6276]

OK advice + insights above, but lets be "1/2 full". I trust an adult on a fine 35 HP tractor can handle plowing up an acre (or 2, or 20) on private land A Ok, with a bit of time, even with an ill fitted plow, et cetera. Something about "never let the ideal become the enemy of the good..." Post script: Try not to plow Drunk and in the dark, enjoy, and rock on!

Well no worries there for sure! Thank you all so much! Anyone have ideas on splitting the tractor to put the pan gasket on?

 

[FarmerJones]

Congrats on the tractor. I plant sunflowers using an MF 165. On new ground I first spray with Roundup in April. After the growth is dead I till using a 6' rototiller at a shallow setting, making additional passes to max depth (6-8 inches). The tiller has a back shield adjustment that can vary the fineness of the ground. Sunflowers are shallow rooted , so it is not necessary to go deeper as you would with a bottom plough. I plant with an MF 39 two row planter. Since I plant hybrids (cutting flowers) and seed flowers different discs are need. They are hard to find and some require modification for the different seed sizes. John Deere planters have a greater variety of discs available, and would be a better choice, but the MF is what I happen to have. Some folks broadcast but I like the orderly rows.
I get my seeds from Johnny's on-line (since this is a farm they are tax-exempt). The first year I planted I lost almost all of the crop to deer. Plantskydd has a spray product that repels deer, rabbits, wood chucks, etc. that really works; it is a blood derisive and a bit of a pain to mix but it truly works. I succession plant so there are new blooms over a period of weeks. Good luck. They sure are pretty in bloom.

 

[bulldog6276]

Congrats on the tractor. I plant sunflowers using an MF 165. On new ground I first spray with Roundup in April. After the growth is dead I till using a 6' rototiller at a shallow setting, making additional passes to max depth (6-8 inches). The tiller has a back shield adjustment that can vary the fineness of the ground. Sunflowers are shallow rooted , so it is not necessary to go deeper as you would with a bottom plough. I plant with an MF 39 two row planter. Since I plant hybrids (cutting flowers) and seed flowers different discs are need. They are hard to find and some require modification for the different seed sizes. John Deere planters have a greater variety of discs available, and would be a better choice, but the MF is what I happen to have. Some folks broadcast but I like the orderly rows.
I get my seeds from Johnny's on-line (since this is a farm they are tax-exempt). The first year I planted I lost almost all of the crop to deer. Plantskydd has a spray product that repels deer, rabbits, wood chucks, etc. that really works; it is a blood derisive and a bit of a pain to mix but it truly works. I succession plant so there are new blooms over a period of weeks. Good luck. They sure are pretty in bloom.

How do you apply the plantskydd? Perimeter or. Spray every plant

 

[FarmerJones]

How do you apply the plantskydd? Perimeter or. Spray every plant

I planted in approx. 20'wide strips with an approx. 6' wide grass strip between, so I did each plant initially with a packpack sprayer. When they got taller just the outside several rows. You can spray at a waking pace; it is not necessary to cover the complete plant. I use the powder concentrate. It repels by odor not taste. The Plantskydd web site has much info.

 

[Bill Knecht]

Congrats on your 135. I love my 1971.

Here's a tip I just learned after mine started overheating, and I discovered massive internal rust: Start out by giving your cooling system a good flush, or perhaps two, depending on how the first looks. Use a good rust remover like Thermocure Evapo-Rust. Price-shop, because many places are charging double/triple what others do (I got mine at O'Reilly's). Be sure to drain from both radiator and engine block drain cocks (and replace those drains if they're beat up). Once flush drains clean, flush with distilled water, drain, and then add your coolant (which should contain its own water pump lube and rust inhibitor). You may want to add additional rust inhibitor, e.g., Niteo Products Motor Medic Radiator Anti-Rust & Water Pump Lube. Thereafter, change your coolant per mfr's instructions.