MF 245 diesel clicks and won't start

[MF in Canada]

Hello friends,

My MF 245 diesel (Perkins 3 cylinder) clicks loudly when I turn the key, but won't turn over or start.

I tested the battery with a load tester, and it showed weak, so as it was over 10 years old I replaced it. The problem remained the same.

The starter motor was rebuilt about 5 years ago by an excellent shop. And if I short the solenoid with a screwdriver, the tractor starts right up.

Does that mean the starter and solenoid are OK? And that I have a bad key/switch, or possibly a problem with the wiring from the key to the solenoid? It passes through the neutral switch on the transmission en route to the solenoid.

I don't understand why the solenoid would work when shorted and just "click" when activated by using the switch. Not enough amperage getting through a bad connection somewhere between the key and the solenoid?

Thanks for any suggestions on how to trace this problem.

Eric

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 21:49:14 07/22/23) Hello friends,

My MF 245 diesel (Perkins 3 cylinder) clicks loudly when I turn the key, but won't turn over or start.

I tested the battery with a load tester, and it showed weak, so as it was over 10 years old I replaced it. The problem remained the same.

The starter motor was rebuilt about 5 years ago by an excellent shop. And if I short the solenoid with a screwdriver, the tractor starts right up.

Does that mean the starter and solenoid are OK? And that I have a bad key/switch, or possibly a problem with the wiring from the key to the solenoid? It passes through the neutral switch on the transmission en route to the solenoid.

I don't understand why the solenoid would work when shorted and just "click" when activated by using the switch. Not enough amperage getting through a bad connection somewhere between the key and the solenoid?

Thanks for any suggestions on how to trace this problem.

Eric

Sounds like a bad switch (could be ignition switch or neutral safety switch) or bad wiring. Find the neutral safety switch and bypass it for a test. Make sure the tractor is in neutral when the neutral switch is bypassed. If it starts from the key switch, with it bypassed, the neutral switch is bad or out of adjustment. If it doesn't start from the key switch with the neutral switch bypassed the problem could be the key switch or wiring. You can use a jumper wire to apply power to the wire that connects to the start terminal of the ignition switch to see if the wires are ok. Again, be sure the tractor is in neutral when testing the start circuit components, it is best to be in the seat when you can during tests..

 

[MF in Canada]

Thank you, Jim.

I will try those things. Much appreciated.

I realized this morning that I should have stated that this problem is "intermittent" and has gotten worse over the last few weeks.

Sometimes when I turn the key, the tractor starts right up. Usually it doesn't. I turn and get a click... several times. Then sometimes on the second, third, or fourth turn, it starts. Lately it more often just doesn't start that way. I have begun to use the screwdriver more regularly....

If this intermittent nature of the problem makes you think of anything, please let me know...

Much appreciated,
Eric

 

[Bob N.Y.]

I have had the same problem with my 65 diesel. The cause is a burned contact inside the solenoid. The short term fix is to loosen the terminal on the solenoid that the battery cable is attached to, rotate the bolt 180 degrees (carriage bolt type head and shoulders) and re-tighten. Your tractor may or may not be the same.

 

[MF#1]

I think Jim.ME and Bob N.Y. have nailed it, either one or the other or a combination of both. I've got a 245D with over 5000 hours, bought
new, and I've rotated the solenoid disc bolt once and cleaned the neutral-safety switch connections a time or two. One way to check the
neutral-safety switch, assuming the wiring/connections are good is the next time it clicks, BOTH gear shift levers in Start and Neutral,
is to hold the key in the Start position and GENTLY move the L-S-H lever SLIGHTLY forward or backward a tad and see if it starts. IF it
starts then maybe the neutral-safety switch is out of adjustment or going bad. IF it doesn't start then I suspect the key switch or
solenoid/wiring. It won't hurt to clean the neutral-safety switch connections. There are two small wire clips that hold them in place. If
I remember correctly they pull out so the bullet wire connector can be removed and cleaned up. If a clip is missing it's not too hard to
make one with part of a paper clip until you can get another one in case a previous operator has messed with it.

 

[Bob N.Y.]

Did you get your tractor to start like it should?

 

[MF in Canada]

Hi there...

Thanks for asking. I haven't gotten to it yet... I have so many irons in the fire at the moment: big garlic harvest, friend with serious mental problems, apple tree borers, etc.... But I have confidence in your diagnoses and will start out looking for 12 volts at the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch, cleaning contacts, and finally working on the solenoid.

I did spray the contacts of the ignition switch with contact cleaner and the tractor started perfectly for half a day of puttering around with many starts and stops. So, I will clean those contacts properly as a first step.

Thanks for all your help and for following up. I will absolutely post a result when I get this sorted out.

Eric

 

[MF#1]

Sounds like you've got a lot going on, I hope you are able to get things sorted out. If this were my tractor I would order a new ignition switch(dealer or online) and wait until it quits again, plug it in without installing it and see if it works properly. Given the new information with the cleaner it -appears- that the switch may be the problem, the rest; solenoid, neutral switch, wiring, seem to be in order...at least for now. I hope things get better for you!

 

[MF in Canada]

Hello Friends,

Vroom! Every time. Very nice.

I am extremely grateful to you all.

I tested continuity and voltage on all the wires and jumped all the switches, and when finally, after all my messing around I couldn't even get beyond "click" with a screwdriver on the solenoid, I rotated the terminal on the solenoid, as Bob N.Y. said to do.

That fixed it. Thank you Bob N.Y.! I would never have guessed that.

An interesting question is why that contact burned after only 5 years or so. A friend suggested that a weak battery could cause that, not throwing the switch hard enough, thus allowing a spark to burn longer than it should. My battery was reading "weak" on the load tester, and so I have replaced it.

Any opinions?

And I suppose the real fix is to rebuild the solenoid, isn't it?

Thanks so much to you all. I got in a nice mowing of hay with the tractor starting reliably... no more parking on a hill.

I appreciate this forum also for its kindness - thank you for your good wishes MF #1. Life is indeed rather a ride just now, but I am still riding along with it, still smiling, and now with a tractor that starts.

My best wishes to you all,
Eric