IH 504 Question + Advice needed BADLY

[Horsez2]

Hello Everyone!

I just purchased my first tractor for my farm! Its an international 504 with a serial number of 19546-SY-FF. Im 90% sure it is a gas engine but it has a glow plug switch? Can anyone give me some more info based on this and the pictures I attached?

Also, I almost died trying to get this thing off the car hauler and into the barn as it's been at least a decade since I've driven a large tractor and apparently have forgotten more than I thought. Any and all advice/directions on starting, driving, operating 3pt hitch/PTO, and maintenance on this tractor are all VERY appreciated!

 

[Horsez2]

Also, I should mention there is a small hydraulic leak from a dry rotted tube in front of the clutch (is it supposed to be a milky/light brown color?) How long after starting the tractor should the OIL light go off and the Charge light come on? There's a small fuel leak from the fuel strainer (only when in the on position and engine is off).

 

[used red MN]

Hello ladies, welcome to YT! You have an International 504 utility style tractor. IH made mainly two types of 504 models, the Farmall “row crop” model and the International utility. The utilities you set on the tractor lower and they have less clearance under the machine. The Farmall row crop type you set higher feet at about the level you set on the utility and more clearance under the machine for “row crops.” Also the width of the wheels could be set to match the width you planted your crop rows. Apparently someone has placed a gas engine in your tractor or the dash has been replaced with one from a diesel. Your 19546 serial number tells you it is a 1967 year model. The attached photo tells you what your serial number suffixes mean. The oil light should go off nearly immediately and the charge light should not light while running either and if it lights should indicate a charging system that is not working. The tractor should not be operated until the cause of the oil light being lit up is determined. Basically, if it is being run with no oil pressure severe damage can be caused to the engine. The pressure should be checked with a master test gauge. O’Reilly auto parts may possibly have a gauge they will loan out. Does the oil light, come on at low engine rpm but go out when revved up higher? If so this is a sign of a very worn out engine. You should get an operators manual for your tractor. Here is a link to the one offered by YT.IH 504 operators manual

 

[super99]

Also, I should mention there is a small hydraulic leak from a dry rotted tube in front of the clutch (is it supposed to be a milky/light brown color?) How long after starting the tractor should the OIL light go off and the Charge light come on? There's a small fuel leak from the fuel strainer (only when in the on position and engine is off).

Does the charge light go out when you rev up the engine? Previous owner had replaced the alternator on my Oliver 1550, it won't charge until I increase engine speed to over 1000rpms and then will charge at an idle. There should be a nut around the shut off shaft on the fuel strainer, see if you can tighten it just a little to make the leak stop. If you get it too tight, you won't be able to turn it to shut it off. Chris

 

[Paul swpa]

Hello Everyone!

I just purchased my first tractor for my farm! Its an international 504 with a serial number of 19546-SY-FF. Im 90% sure it is a gas engine but it has a glow plug switch? Can anyone give me some more info based on this and the pictures I attached?

Also, I almost died trying to get this thing off the car hauler and into the barn as it's been at least a decade since I've driven a large tractor and apparently have forgotten more than I thought. Any and all advice/directions on starting, driving, operating 3pt hitch/PTO, and maintenance on this tractor are all VERY appreciated!

Seeing no one has mentioned it yet, the push button in front of your left knee (which I am assuming you think is for glo plugs if was diesel) is a starting button. Have/had couple tractors with those (IH 656, Farmall 544). Turn the key then push button to start, key shuts it off. If not labeled for glow plugs ( means engine was swapped out sometime) that is what you have. If the key alone starts it, that button has been bypassed in the wiring and just not removed. Also fluids should not be milky/brown looking, means water contamination, needing a closer look to see what is going on. Paul

 

[Horsez2]

Seeing no one has mentioned it yet, the push button in front of your left knee (which I am assuming you think is for glo plugs if was diesel) is a starting button. Have/had couple tractors with those (IH 656, Farmall 544). Turn the key then push button to start, key shuts it off. If not labeled for glow plugs ( means engine was swapped out sometime) that is what you have. If the key alone starts it, that button has been bypassed in the wiring and just not removed. Also fluids should not be milky/brown looking, means water contamination, needing a closer look to see what is going on. Paul

Hello! Thank you! I was referring to the switch in the top right of the instrument panel. I know the button is the push start.

I will get a closer image of the hydraulic fluid color.

 

[flying belgian]

Your other questions have been addressed but I'm concerned about you almost dying. I assume you were kidding but for the slight chance you were serious DO NOT OPERATE THAT TRACTOR until someone gives you some instruction. Do you have a neighbor, farmer, relative, friend who is familiar?

 

[Horsez2]

Your other questions have been addressed but I'm concerned about you almost dying. I assume you were kidding but for the slight chance you were serious DO NOT OPERATE THAT TRACTOR until someone gives you some instruction. Do you have a neighbor, farmer, relative, friend who is familiar?

Thank you for your concern! I was definitely kidding! Just had an interesting time getting it off the equipment trailer.

 

[used red MN]

Hello! Thank you! I was referring to the switch in the top right of the instrument panel. I know the button is the push start.

I will get a closer image of the hydraulic fluid color.

The round gray knob is originally the lights. Below and to the right of the light switch, the black oval looking switch is not original. It is anybody’s guess what it operates. You will have to follow the wires then tell us.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

It should be a nice little unit the carburetor is on the left and the distributor on the right both of which indicate a gas tractor. Diesel will have a fuel pump with injectors no electrical ignition system. You will probably become familiar with these 2 items as you own it. Left and right will be as you are sitting in the seat. Fluid changes are where I’d start especially if you have concerns and even if you thought it looked ok the rule around here is when you buy it is a good time to do some fluid changes so you know the condition is good. Count like 3 seconds there should be no more oil light on but good fresh oil might be a good place to start

 

[Horsez2]

It should be a nice little unit the carburetor is on the left and the distributor on the right both of which indicate a gas tractor. Diesel will have a fuel pump with injectors no electrical ignition system. You will probably become familiar with these 2 items as you own it. Left and right will be as you are sitting in the seat. Fluid changes are where I’d start especially if you have concerns and even if you thought it looked ok the rule around here is when you buy it is a good time to do some fluid changes so you know the condition is good. Count like 3 seconds there should be no more oil light on but good fresh oil might be a good place to start

Thank you! I was pretty sure it was a gas tractor based on the fuel bowl and the carb and lack of injectors lol. But I had to double check!

I am planning on fluid changes and drained the oil today! The oil was at the ADD line so I know it was a bit low. It looks like there’s oil slowly leaking somewhere… I’ll have to find it once I give the engine bay a good power wash and put new oil in. I know there’s a whole debate about oil as I’ve been reading but it seems 15W-40 is good for this engine (C153). I live in PA for temp references. I am also picking up a new oil filter tomorrow and will change the oil in the air intake. The oil I drained today was pretty dark… should I use an engine flush? If so what kind?

The gas tank had very little fuel and the sediment bowl seems to need cleaning to I was planning on draining the tank and then just putting new 93 in.

The radiator is full with some sort of coolant should I change that out or just make sure it’s topped off? What coolant should I use?

Hydraulics are super new to me. There’s one small line that’s got a leak on the left of the tractor and sits just in front of another tube that’s just before the clutch pedal. Where do I buy replacement lines? Do I cut to size? Should I replace the hydraulic fluid (looks like a cream/milk color)? Should I replace the hydraulic filter? Is the power steering separate and have its own fluid/filter?

Sorry for all the questions! I’m still reading up and just purchased the shop manual today so I might answer them along the way but I appreciate someone’s experience/direct knowledge a lot more than me reading a textbook

 

[used red MN]

Did you by chance check your PM? Letter or envelope icon at the top.

 

[Janicholson]

Thank you! I was pretty sure it was a gas tractor based on the fuel bowl and the carb and lack of injectors lol. But I had to double check!

I am planning on fluid changes and drained the oil today! The oil was at the ADD line so I know it was a bit low. It looks like there’s oil slowly leaking somewhere… I’ll have to find it once I give the engine bay a good power wash and put new oil in. I know there’s a whole debate about oil as I’ve been reading but it seems 15W-40 is good for this engine (C153). I live in PA for temp references. I am also picking up a new oil filter tomorrow and will change the oil in the air intake. The oil I drained today was pretty dark… should I use an engine flush? If so what kind?

The gas tank had very little fuel and the sediment bowl seems to need cleaning to I was planning on draining the tank and then just putting new 93 in.

The radiator is full with some sort of coolant should I change that out or just make sure it’s topped off? What coolant should I use?

Hydraulics are super new to me. There’s one small line that’s got a leak on the left of the tractor and sits just in front of another tube that’s just before the clutch pedal. Where do I buy replacement lines? Do I cut to size? Should I replace the hydraulic fluid (looks like a cream/milk color)? Should I replace the hydraulic filter? Is the power steering separate and have its own fluid/filter?

Sorry for all the questions! I’m still reading up and just purchased the shop manual today so I might answer them along the way but I appreciate someone’s experience/direct knowledge a lot more than me reading a textbook

93 octane is not needed, just use regular it is a waste to use premium cost fuel in an engine that cannot use the added knock resistance. Hydraulic fluid is bad if not light brown and near transparent. Hytran (IH brand, or from a secondary source that has a label that indicates it is compatible with IH Hytran specifications. (not the sales person). Leave the coolant alone until it is running correctly. Then plain old green antifreeze at 50/50 mix or premix. The Power steering uses the hydraulic system, not separate. 15-40 is a great choice. Delo, Shell Rotella, or other solid brand. Jim

 

[Horsez2]

Thanks so much! So far it seems the hydraulic reservoir is 12gal. So I’d need 3 5gallon of HyTran? I found this alternative that says for use in Case/IH hytran that’s half the price of the IH branded HyTran. Thoughts? It’s
“Providence Automotive Premium Trans-Hydraulic Fluid for Case / IH 5.0G - PA-IH5HY” sold by Rural King.

Once I drain hydraulic fluid is there something I should do to flush the rest of the bad fluid out?

Thank you!

 

[Janicholson]

Thanks so much! So far it seems the hydraulic reservoir is 12gal. So I’d need 3 5gallon of HyTran? I found this alternative that says for use in Case/IH hytran that’s half the price of the IH branded HyTran. Thoughts? It’s
“Providence Automotive Premium Trans-Hydraulic Fluid for Case / IH 5.0G - PA-IH5HY” sold by Rural King.

Once I drain hydraulic fluid is there something I should do to flush the rest of the bad fluid out?

Thank you!

You could heat the existing fluid in a safe (not over 220 degrees and evaporate the water contamination out of it. (carefully as it is like a turkey fryer event) then use it to refill the system and run it to dilute the brown . Then drain and use the new Providence oil which should be fine. Jim

 

[Fixingfarmer]

The 15-40 will also make higher pressure and you have some concerns about that so it is what I’d probably use having both that and 10w30 laying around. I think I’d just buy the hydraulic fluid if you don’t want to risk anything. Like said above though if you want to skip the coolant for now it shouldn’t hurt anything if it still looks like coolant and you are going into the warm part of the year but by next winter think about changing it out or at the very least testing it’s freezing point

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Hello! Thank you! I was referring to the switch in the top right of the instrument panel. I know the button is the push start.

I will get a closer image of the hydraulic fluid color.

That switch is a modern generic "upfitter" switch you can buy at any auto parts store, Amazon, etc.. Definitely not a glow plug switch. If it were a glow plug switch you never would've gotten the tractor started without using it.

Flip it and see what it does. Be sure to look and smell for smoke, because home brew wiring tends to be not so great. There are some people that can do a good job but there are plenty who can't.

I would plan on doing a hydraulic fluid change regardless. What's seeping from that hose is most likely representative of what's in the entire reservoir.

 

[DRussell]

Thanks so much! So far it seems the hydraulic reservoir is 12gal. So I’d need 3 5gallon of HyTran? I found this alternative that says for use in Case/IH hytran that’s half the price of the IH branded HyTran. Thoughts? It’s
“Providence Automotive Premium Trans-Hydraulic Fluid for Case / IH 5.0G - PA-IH5HY” sold by Rural King.

Once I drain hydraulic fluid is there something I should do to flush the rest of the bad fluid out?

Thank you!

Tractor Supply also sells their brand of Trans-Hydraulic fluid that is compatible with CaseIH Hytran fluid. With the TA (Torque Amplifier) on the tractor, you should use an oil that is a "hydraulic and transmission" oil. Don't get a straight hydraulic oil.

Rural Kings version of that oil should be fine for it.

Where in PA are you? There are several other posters, including me, on the forum that also live in PA.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I'm with Jim heat the oil and occasionally stir to see if it still changes color when it quits changing it has the moisture out of it. Put back in and run to cirulate mixing with the oil in the nondrainable system points like the 3pt cylinder and oil cooler lines. Then change filter again and add your new oil. I use a tractor hydraulic fluid on our tractors of similar vintage and get aftermarket filters. Baldwin has a distributor close by with good parts support for them so I use them. After run for a day then drain change filter again and add your new oil. You will get as many answers to the oil to use as there are oils made.

 

[Jim in LA]

Hello Everyone!

I just purchased my first tractor for my farm! Its an international 504 with a serial number of 19546-SY-FF. Im 90% sure it is a gas engine but it has a glow plug switch? Can anyone give me some more info based on this and the pictures I attached?

Also, I almost died trying to get this thing off the car hauler and into the barn as it's been at least a decade since I've driven a large tractor and apparently have forgotten more than I thought. Any and all advice/directions on starting, driving, operating 3pt hitch/PTO, and maintenance on this tractor are all VERY appreciated!

There are operators and service manuals available on Ebay. Some are in CD format. Get one, it will make life more pleasant. My uncle had a 504 row crop, 1964 I think, it was a nice tractor. I managed to find a 1/16 die cast replica of it about twelve years ago.