9N 3 Point Arms not Raising

[Hobbyfarmer 52]

Grandpas 9N has been sitting in a shed for 8 - 10 years and when the shed started to fall down it was pulled outside for the last year. I brought it home and thought i would try to get it going. It’s an older 9N with the starter switch in the dash but it does have an 8N engine in it with the side distributor. I drained all the fluids and replaced, cleaned the carb, filed the points, hung a temporary gas tank on it and put in a battery. It didn’t crank much before started and it ran pretty good. Now the next thing to work on is the 3 point. The arms make no attempt to raise with PTO on and moving the lift lever. There is some movement on the top link spring. Reading posts i could find it looks like my next move is to remove side covers and see what’s happening inside with oil. Does anyone have any trouble shooting tips for this situation? The tires hold air for a while but are pretty rotten so i would like to see if the 3 point will work before I invest in tires which are probably worth more than the tractor. If it wasn’t grandpas i probably wouldn’t be messing with it.
Thanks for your help,
DJ

 

[old]

Grandpas 9N has been sitting in a shed for 8 - 10 years and when the shed started to fall down it was pulled outside for the last year. I brought it home and thought i would try to get it going. It’s an older 9N with the starter switch in the dash but it does have an 8N engine in it with the side distributor. I drained all the fluids and replaced, cleaned the carb, filed the points, hung a temporary gas tank on it and put in a battery. It didn’t crank much before started and it ran pretty good. Now the next thing to work on is the 3 point. The arms make no attempt to raise with PTO on and moving the lift lever. There is some movement on the top link spring. Reading posts i could find it looks like my next move is to remove side covers and see what’s happening inside with oil. Does anyone have any trouble shooting tips for this situation? The tires hold air for a while but are pretty rotten so i would like to see if the 3 point will work before I invest in tires which are probably worth more than the tractor. If it wasn’t grandpas i probably wouldn’t be messing with it.
Thanks for your help,
DJ

Good chance the valve is stuck closed. You need to pull off one of the 2 round inspection covers and look inside to see if the valve it opening or if the tip has popped out of place in the end of the valve

 

[HCooke]

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/q7/Rvrwoods/Parts drawings/001NHNA-141.gif">
Click on the link above. This is a diagram pf the internal lift linkage. Make sure the fork (3) is attached to the valve.

Sorry I don't know how to post the picture to this new forum format.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Grandpas 9N has been sitting in a shed for 8 - 10 years and when the shed started to fall down it was pulled outside for the last year. I brought it home and thought i would try to get it going. It’s an older 9N with the starter switch in the dash but it does have an 8N engine in it with the side distributor. I drained all the fluids and replaced, cleaned the carb, filed the points, hung a temporary gas tank on it and put in a battery. It didn’t crank much before started and it ran pretty good. Now the next thing to work on is the 3 point. The arms make no attempt to raise with PTO on and moving the lift lever. There is some movement on the top link spring. Reading posts i could find it looks like my next move is to remove side covers and see what’s happening inside with oil. Does anyone have any trouble shooting tips for this situation? The tires hold air for a while but are pretty rotten so i would like to see if the 3 point will work before I invest in tires which are probably worth more than the tractor. If it wasn’t grandpas i probably wouldn’t be messing with it.
Thanks for your help,
DJ

Do you have the 3-PT PTO Lever, p/n 9N-723 engaged on the lower LH side by your foot rest? Sometimes it is the basic stuff that bites us. Have you checked the hydraulic oil level on the dipstick and condition of oil? If contaminated with water it will be a murky brown or whitish color. These 80+ YO machines often have worn out hydraulic systems and are in need of a total rebuild. Normally you can do the LEAK DOWN TEST but the 3-Pt has to be working and raising up first. The 9N/2N hydraulic system is different than the 8N and later ones. 9N/2N's only had DRAFT CONTROL. You must pull the top cover off, bolted under the seat, to get to repairs but it system has a special "Wishbone" Linkage that must be removed first. The hyd cylinder is fastened by four bolts under the seat and you DO NOT remove them until you get the linkage disconnected via side inspection covers and then top cover is removed and on your bench. A worn piston and cylinder is the root cause of a failed system. Pump chambers can be removed and cleaned. A new Safety Relief Valve is also needed. The newer piston made for the NAA is advised to use now with the Ring Groove, Rubber O-RING, and leather back-up wiper/washer. If pump had frozen water in it, may have gotten cracked and will need to be replaced. Your manuals have chapters on R&R'g the system. Also get this video - best you can get for 9N HYD rebuild.

Your Mileage May Vary
Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Hobbyfarmer 52]

Thanks for the information. This gives me some items to check on but first I need to finish up with maple syrup. Tim one of the first things I did was drain and change all the fluids and yes it was quite milky from moisture.
Thanks, DJ

 

[Lynn Patrick]

Grandpas 9N has been sitting in a shed for 8 - 10 years and when the shed started to fall down it was pulled outside for the last year. I brought it home and thought i would try to get it going. It’s an older 9N with the starter switch in the dash but it does have an 8N engine in it with the side distributor. I drained all the fluids and replaced, cleaned the carb, filed the points, hung a temporary gas tank on it and put in a battery. It didn’t crank much before started and it ran pretty good. Now the next thing to work on is the 3 point. The arms make no attempt to raise with PTO on and moving the lift lever. There is some movement on the top link spring. Reading posts i could find it looks like my next move is to remove side covers and see what’s happening inside with oil. Does anyone have any trouble shooting tips for this situation? The tires hold air for a while but are pretty rotten so i would like to see if the 3 point will work before I invest in tires which are probably worth more than the tractor. If it wasn’t grandpas i probably wouldn’t be messing with it.
Thanks for your help,
DJ

"If it wasn’t grandpas i probably wouldn’t be messing with it." I hope you realize how many of us here covet your situation & would love to find grandpa's/Dad's old tractor!

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Grandpas 9N has been sitting in a shed for 8 - 10 years and when the shed started to fall down it was pulled outside for the last year. I brought it home and thought i would try to get it going. It’s an older 9N with the starter switch in the dash but it does have an 8N engine in it with the side distributor. I drained all the fluids and replaced, cleaned the carb, filed the points, hung a temporary gas tank on it and put in a battery. It didn’t crank much before started and it ran pretty good. Now the next thing to work on is the 3 point. The arms make no attempt to raise with PTO on and moving the lift lever. There is some movement on the top link spring. Reading posts i could find it looks like my next move is to remove side covers and see what’s happening inside with oil. Does anyone have any trouble shooting tips for this situation? The tires hold air for a while but are pretty rotten so i would like to see if the 3 point will work before I invest in tires which are probably worth more than the tractor. If it wasn’t grandpas i probably wouldn’t be messing with it.
Thanks for your help,
DJ

Unbolt lower bolt on round side cover on right side of tractor. If no fluid comes out unbolt the rest and remove. Drain fluid. Move lever up and down to see if valve moves in and out. If no movement work valve with screwdriver thru drain hole. I just freed one up yesterday. I can probably send a video if you need it

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Unbolt lower bolt on round side cover on right side of tractor. If no fluid comes out unbolt the rest and remove. Drain fluid. Move lever up and down to see if valve moves in and out. If no movement work valve with screwdriver thru drain hole. I just freed one up yesterday. I can probably send a video if you need it. If lever was in the down position the valve will need to go in. Raise lever to move valve in

 

[lha]

Grandpas 9N has been sitting in a shed for 8 - 10 years and when the shed started to fall down it was pulled outside for the last year. I brought it home and thought i would try to get it going. It’s an older 9N with the starter switch in the dash but it does have an 8N engine in it with the side distributor. I drained all the fluids and replaced, cleaned the carb, filed the points, hung a temporary gas tank on it and put in a battery. It didn’t crank much before started and it ran pretty good. Now the next thing to work on is the 3 point. The arms make no attempt to raise with PTO on and moving the lift lever. There is some movement on the top link spring. Reading posts i could find it looks like my next move is to remove side covers and see what’s happening inside with oil. Does anyone have any trouble shooting tips for this situation? The tires hold air for a while but are pretty rotten so i would like to see if the 3 point will work before I invest in tires which are probably worth more than the tractor. If it wasn’t grandpas i probably wouldn’t be messing with it.
Thanks for your help,
DJ

I have a '41 9n,almost exactly like yours. Mine has stopped working a couple of times and the problem was the forks coming loose from the little T- on the control valve. I had to take both covers off,as I have fat fingers and arthritis. I pulled the pump both times,deep cleaned the sump and restored the pump. There was very little crud both times I pulled the pump.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

I have a '41 9n,almost exactly like yours. Mine has stopped working a couple of times and the problem was the forks coming loose from the little T- on the control valve. I had to take both covers off,as I have fat fingers and arthritis. I pulled the pump both times,deep cleaned the sump and restored the pump. There was very little crud both times I pulled the pump.

Some guys will wire the forks together after installing the T to keep them from coming loose again

 

[HFJ]

I had to take both covers off,as I have fat fingers and arthritis.

welcome to the club. we're everywhere, sadly.

switching over to electronic ignition has been very helpful, eliminating one set of tasks these arthritic fingers really didn't like.

 

[Jim L WA]

Hi Hobbyfarmer, You got good advice already, but I noticed you said you saw some movement at the top link spring. So I was wondering if you can raise the lift arms yourself, or are they frozen?

 

[JMOR]

https://imgur.com/jYlekNM

 

[Hobbyfarmer 52]

Hi Hobbyfarmer, You got good advice already, but I noticed you said you saw some movement at the top link spring. So I was wondering if you can raise the lift arms yourself, or are they frozen?

Jim, I can lift the arms by hand very easily. Does this indicate something?
Thanks, DJ

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Looking at Jmor’s photo the valve is out(lever in down position) raise lever up and put a screw driver behind the T thru the drain plug and move it forward

 

[Hobbyfarmer 52]

https://imgur.com/jYlekNM

I had some time and took off the right side cover and drained the oil. Mine looks just like your photo. Spool is out and not moving. Next move is to try and get it to move.
Thanks again for everyone's help. I am sure there are more questions coming.

 

[lha]

Some guys will wire the forks together after installing the T to keep them from coming loose again

I used wire the last time. I used stainless steel wire,so hopefully I won't have that problem.

 

[Hobbyfarmer 52]

Looking at Jmor’s photo the valve is out(lever in down position) raise lever up and put a screw driver behind the T thru the drain plug and move it forward

I got the spool to move in without too much pressure. Is it supposed to move in and out when moving the lift arm or do I need to put oil back in and run it?
Thanks, DJ

 

[Kirk-NJ]

I got the spool to move in without too much pressure. Is it supposed to move in and out when moving the lift arm or do I need to put oil back in and run it?
Thanks, DJ

Yes when you move the lever up and down the valve will move in and out. If it sticks in work it with the screw driver thru drain hole until it works freely with the lever in and out

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Yes when you move the lever up and down the valve will move in and out. If it sticks in work it with the screw driver thru drain hole until it works freely with the lever in and out

When valve is in the out position you can also spray some penetrating oil like Blaster or Kroil on it then work the lever