8830 Overheat

[ford401]

Ford 8830 keeps overheating. I've put new belts on it and tightened them as much as I can. 2 new Tstats. Fresh coolant filled to appropriate level. Radiator was blown out, washed out with hose, and blown out again. I do not seem to hear the fan clutch roar like I've heard other tractors and trucks, but it does have quite a bit of resistance when I turn it by hand. I also stuck a corn stalk in there to try to slow the fan when it was hot and it tore it right up, so it does seem to be locking up like it should? Is there any other way to really see if its working correctly before I throw a $600 clutch at it? My pulleys seem to have a bit of a groove in them so I ordered new ones but I'm not convinced that's the real problem. Has anyone ever put an electric fan on one of these? Wondering if that is worth it

 

[Bern]

First things first, how do you know it's overheating? Because the gauge says so, or because it is boiling over? If you're going by the gauge, confirm your problem with a mechanical gauge plumbed in next to your existing sending unit.

If you can't hear the fan roar at full load then it's likely not locking up. The only way to be sure is to put the tractor on a dyno and photo tach it - a good viscous clutch will lock up at approximately 90% of pulley speed. Also, the fan belt needs to be guitar-string tight. Major blunder by Ford for not using two belts there.

Electric fan is not the answer - you'd never find one big enough.

 

[ford401]

First things first, how do you know it's overheating? Because the gauge says so, or because it is boiling over? If you're going by the gauge, confirm your problem with a mechanical gauge plumbed in next to your existing sending unit.

If you can't hear the fan roar at full load then it's likely not locking up. The only way to be sure is to put the tractor on a dyno and photo tach it - a good viscous clutch will lock up at approximately 90% of pulley speed. Also, the fan belt needs to be guitar-string tight. Major blunder by Ford for not using two belts there.

Electric fan is not the answer - you'd never find one big enough.

It has boiled over 2 times now. first time it boiled over the cap, so i bought a new NH cap and installed it. 2nd time it got so hot it boiled through the over fill tube and almost blew the top radiator hose. the gauge actually doesn’t seem to work, it always stays on 1 bar and never moves off.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I fought with my 8830 for years. Ended up replacing all the pulleys and balancer, water pump, t-stats, belts, and finially the radiator. Still runs warmer than my TW but at least it won't boil over.

Once upon a time someone deleted the fan clutch on mine so it is direct drive. I bought a thicker spacer to push the fan deeper into the shroud as well.

 

[Bern]

I fought with my 8830 for years. Ended up replacing all the pulleys and balancer, water pump, t-stats, belts, and finially the radiator. Still runs warmer than my TW but at least it won't boil over.

Once upon a time someone deleted the fan clutch on mine so it is direct drive. I bought a thicker spacer to push the fan deeper into the shroud as well.

If it still runs warm with a solid fan hub, then I'd wager there's something wrong with your temp gauge. Either that or the fuel pump has been turned way up.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I've had 2 different mechanical temp gauges on it.

Fuel is set right around 175hp on the dyno. So not a whole lot over stock.

 

[Destroked 450]

I washed and blew thru the radiator on my overheating 6610, finally pulled the radiator to find the fins nearly 70% plugged

 

[Bern]

I've had 2 different mechanical temp gauges on it.

Fuel is set right around 175hp on the dyno. So not a whole lot over stock.

OK, so that begs the next question: What temperature do you consider to be overheating?

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

OK, so that begs the next question: What temperature do you consider to be overheating?

The temp just before it boils over, someplace around 220-225?

 

[Bern]

The temp just before it boils over, someplace around 220-225?

Sounds like you need a new radiator cap if it's spitting water out only 10 degrees over the boiling point.

You may be surprised to learn that Ford allows a max of 250 degrees on that engine. That's an advantage of a parent bore engine.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Sounds like you need a new radiator cap if it's spitting water out only 10 degrees over the boiling point.

You may be surprised to learn that Ford allows a max of 250 degrees on that engine.

Its had multiple new radiator caps. Maybe the temp is higher its been since last hay season since its gotten over 180. All I know is my TW runs 200-210 degrees doing the same work.

Also the digital dash starts flashing and beeping shortly before it boils over.

 

[Bern]

Its had multiple new radiator caps. Maybe the temp is higher its been since last hay season since its gotten over 180. All I know is my TW runs 200-210 degrees doing the same work.

Also the digital dash starts flashing and beeping shortly before it boils over.

Maybe the problem then is the filler neck where the cap seats, as it should not be spitting out water at 220 degrees. Also, it appears that there's a disconnect between the temps you're seeing with your gauges and what the dash is thinking.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Maybe the problem then is the filler neck where the cap seats, as it should not be spitting out water at 220 degrees. Also, it appears that there's a disconnect between the temps you're seeing with your gauges and what the dash is thinking.

Like I said I'm probably not remembering the temps from the mechanical gauges correctly its been almost a year since its been warm. I do know that the mechanical gauge falls in line with the range for the bars on the digital dash. So when it flashes stop its probably in the 250 range.

No matter, it runs way hotter than anything else I own its really the only equipment I own where I constantly look at the temp gauges as its always on the the upper edge of comfortable.

 

[jbirnsch]

Ford 8830 keeps overheating. I've put new belts on it and tightened them as much as I can. 2 new Tstats. Fresh coolant filled to appropriate level. Radiator was blown out, washed out with hose, and blown out again. I do not seem to hear the fan clutch roar like I've heard other tractors and trucks, but it does have quite a bit of resistance when I turn it by hand. I also stuck a corn stalk in there to try to slow the fan when it was hot and it tore it right up, so it does seem to be locking up like it should? Is there any other way to really see if its working correctly before I throw a $600 clutch at it? My pulleys seem to have a bit of a groove in them so I ordered new ones but I'm not convinced that's the real problem. Has anyone ever put an electric fan on one of these? Wondering if that is worth it

Fought our TW30 overheating. Replaced the fan drive pulley. It was wore out and belt would bottom out in the groove. Keep the belts tight and replace if glazed. I’d like to take the Ford engineer that designed the fan drive………. That should have been dual belt or serpentine.

If you keep pushing water check to see if the small pipe at the bottom of the muffler didn’t wear a hole in the top tank of the radiator. Ours did and I had to solder a patch on the rad and patch up the pipe.

 

[ford401]

This 8830 has 2 sending or sensors in the thermostat housing. I assume one is for the "idiot light" and one is for the gauge. CNH only shows 1 on their diagram online. Can anyone tell me if the top one is the one for the light or gauge? I replaced it with a new one part #47598516, but it looks different than the one I took out. I do not think my gauge is working as it never comes off the first bar. The dash was fixed by Ag Express so I figured I'd throw a sending unit at it. Wiring looks good without digging too far into it. Do not have time this time of year. Thanks

 

[Eman85]

Pull the wire and turn the key on, no light then that's the light control. Ground the wire light should come on.