1020 Front spindle Snapped!

[d page]

In the middle of pecan harvest the right front spindle snapped off!
I have the 48 front end loader and have added a larger pecan box to the existing bucket to enable transport of pecans from tarp to trailer.
To me there is fairly clear evidence of some existing damage to the spindle prior to this catastrophic failure.
See pics of the end view of what was left on the tractor after the spindle sheared off and the tire rolled away, and the other side of the fractured spindle that remained in the wheel bearing.
Also the steering arm has been welded to the top of the king pin (pic attached)

I have the JD OEM Service Manual but I'll be darned if i can find where removal of the king pin is detailed.

My questions:
1. It seems reasonable evident that the weld of the steering arm to the top of the king pin will be need to be ground off to remove the front spindle.
Among the required parts i think will be needed:
Front spindle
Steering Arm
Bearing seal
??

ASAP shows 7 spindles for a 1020 w/ a huge price range from $140 to $250

Search results for: 'john deere 1020 right front axle'

All States Ag Parts is the leading supplier of tractor, combine, skid steer and other ag-related parts to North America. We sell new aftermarket, remanufactured and used parts.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

Quality often requires paying for same.
I want to be sure i get a GOOD quality spindle so this won't happen again, at the same time not pay more than i need to.
Any recommendations on manufacturers/vendors that provide quality parts?

2. Any cautions, tips or recommendations on accomplishing this repair?

3. From the pics it can be seen what to me appears to be 2 areas of the spindle that look like the spindle had been partially cut through at two locations that are diametrically opposed. Leaving something around a 20 to 30 % reduction in shear area PLUS the stress concentrations that would produce. Which would easily explain why the spindle failed. Hard to imagine that such a defective part would be used ?! Any thoughts on what the pics of the spindle failure area might reveal?

Regards,
d page

 

[Jim.ME]

In the middle of pecan harvest the right front spindle snapped off!
I have the 48 front end loader and have added a larger pecan box to the existing bucket to enable transport of pecans from tarp to trailer.
To me there is fairly clear evidence of some existing damage to the spindle prior to this catastrophic failure.
See pics of the end view of what was left on the tractor after the spindle sheared off and the tire rolled away, and the other side of the fractured spindle that remained in the wheel bearing.
Also the steering arm has been welded to the top of the king pin (pic attached)

I have the JD OEM Service Manual but I'll be darned if i can find where removal of the king pin is detailed.

My questions:
1. It seems reasonable evident that the weld of the steering arm to the top of the king pin will be need to be ground off to remove the front spindle.
Among the required parts i think will be needed:
Front spindle
Steering Arm
Bearing seal
??

ASAP shows 7 spindles for a 1020 w/ a huge price range from $140 to $250

Search results for: 'john deere 1020 right front axle'

All States Ag Parts is the leading supplier of tractor, combine, skid steer and other ag-related parts to North America. We sell new aftermarket, remanufactured and used parts.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

Quality often requires paying for same.
I want to be sure i get a GOOD quality spindle so this won't happen again, at the same time not pay more than i need to.
Any recommendations on manufacturers/vendors that provide quality parts?

2. Any cautions, tips or recommendations on accomplishing this repair?
View attachment 1615View attachment 1616View attachment 1617
3. From the pics it can be seen what to me appears to be 2 areas of the spindle that look like the spindle had been partially cut through at two locations that are diametrically opposed. Leaving something around a 20 to 30 % reduction in shear area PLUS the stress concentrations that would produce. Which would easily explain why the spindle failed. Hard to imagine that such a defective part would be used ?! Any thoughts on what the pics of the spindle failure area might reveal?

Regards,
d page

Breaking a spindle (knuckle) on a farm tractor with a loader is not uncommon, the loader adds stress to the front-end components, and you say you have added an oversize box (bucket). I would not say it was cut; it looks like fatigue over time to me. The lever (which is keyed and clamped to the knuckle) being welded to the knuckle, says it has had some hard use. You are lucky, it looks like the hub is salvageable, many break chunks out of the hub when the axle drops so you get to replace it as well.

Here is a link to the 1020 parts catalog (guessing you have the 1965 - 1973 vintage 1020).

PC 970

Using section 80 Wheels, Front Axles, Sheet Metal, you need to identify which axle you have. From your pictures I would start by looking at the page titled: "FRONT AXLE KNEE, SPINDLE AND KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY (SWEPT BACK ADJUSTABLE FRONT AXLE) 1118-1676MM (44"-66") (LU, RU) 1219-1981MM (48"-78") (RU) (STRAIGHT ADJUSTABLE FRONT AXLE) 1219-2032MM (48"-80") (RU, HU) 1473-2350MM (58"-92-1/2") (RU) 1524-2235MM (60"-88") [03F18] - 80-10e". It doesn't appear you have the heavy duty axle.
The part that broke is called a knuckle by JD. I think you can save the lever the tie rod hooks to with a bit of work using a grinder. Grind the weld off, remove the clamp bolt, spread the ears a bit with a wedge and remove it. Remove the 1/4" key from the knuckle shaft that indexed the lever then the knuckle will slide down out of the knee. There are bushings in the knee, however you will likely want to just slide the new knuckle in to get going. You should replace the seals, washers, and thrust bearing used with the knuckle in the axle knee. You will want to look the wheel bearings over, the inner one in praticular, for damage and replace the wheel seal. You can Identify which knuckle you have by using the vertical measurements they give.

As far as which one of the aftermarket ones is best, your guess is as good as any. Many are likely made in the same place anyway. JD owns A&I so some might say that is the best aftermarket one. I have used a number of different ones based on what is available, as you generally have to get something quick to get back in operation. I did a similar one last week. JD wants about $700 for an OEM Knuckle, $175 for the A&I one from them. You might check your dealer, they might have an A&I one in stock, one of the local dealers here had one. A bit more than you can find one on line but may be worth it if you need the tractor going.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

It would appear you can measure the length on ASAP and get the right one. Regardless where you go I wouldn’t take a chance on a used spindle buy new from here or elsewhere if there’s a loader on it a lot bigger tractors have broken knees from that size loader. The wish for it not to happen again is a good wish but this is a failure point and always has been. They make the loader more than capable enough to handle its rated capacity but the tractor isn’t. Go drive to the coop scale with a bucket fullest you ever do and see what it says then look at the original weight of your tractor. The weight of your loaded bucket is over 1/3 of the tractor it means your stressing those spindles. In your case your tractor weighs 4210 bare. So 1400 lbs is where you need to quit and if you are bouncing across the field with it much sooner. That loader can probably pick up over a ton with some effort and ballast my 146 does

 

[d page]

THANKS TO ALL FOR YOU VERY HELPFUL INFO!!!
Now to get the parts and fix!

 

[d page]

Breaking a spindle (knuckle) on a farm tractor with a loader is not uncommon, the loader adds stress to the front-end components, and you say you have added an oversize box (bucket). I would not say it was cut; it looks like fatigue over time to me. The lever (which is keyed and clamped to the knuckle) being welded to the knuckle, says it has had some hard use. You are lucky, it looks like the hub is salvageable, many break chunks out of the hub when the axle drops so you get to replace it as well.

Here is a link to the 1020 parts catalog (guessing you have the 1965 - 1973 vintage 1020).

PC 970

Using section 80 Wheels, Front Axles, Sheet Metal, you need to identify which axle you have. From your pictures I would start by looking at the page titled: "FRONT AXLE KNEE, SPINDLE AND KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY (SWEPT BACK ADJUSTABLE FRONT AXLE) 1118-1676MM (44"-66") (LU, RU) 1219-1981MM (48"-78") (RU) (STRAIGHT ADJUSTABLE FRONT AXLE) 1219-2032MM (48"-80") (RU, HU) 1473-2350MM (58"-92-1/2") (RU) 1524-2235MM (60"-88") [03F18] - 80-10e". It doesn't appear you have the heavy duty axle.
The part that broke is called a knuckle by JD. I think you can save the lever the tie rod hooks to with a bit of work using a grinder. Grind the weld off, remove the clamp bolt, spread the ears a bit with a wedge and remove it. Remove the 1/4" key from the knuckle shaft that indexed the lever then the knuckle will slide down out of the knee. There are bushings in the knee, however you will likely want to just slide the new knuckle in to get going. You should replace the seals, washers, and thrust bearing used with the knuckle in the axle knee. You will want to look the wheel bearings over, the inner one in praticular, for damage and replace the wheel seal. You can Identify which knuckle you have by using the vertical measurements they give.

As far as which one of the aftermarket ones is best, your guess is as good as any. Many are likely made in the same place anyway. JD owns A&I so some might say that is the best aftermarket one. I have used a number of different ones based on what is available, as you generally have to get something quick to get back in operation. I did a similar one last week. JD wants about $700 for an OEM Knuckle, $175 for the A&I one from them. You might check your dealer, they might have an A&I one in stock, one of the local dealers here had one. A bit more than you can find one on line but may be worth it if you need the tractor going.

Jim.me, thanks for your details!
from your comment on the 'heavy axle' it seems that since breaking front spindle is "not that uncommon" and considering my use of the loader, if a spindle were to break with the bucket loaded and raised high it could result i think very easily in some getting killed or hurt by the tractor turning over. Either the driver or someone below! Accordingly my question: Would buying a heavier 'knuckle' (heavy duty axle) allow me to put that in the existing housing of my tractor of does that ALSO need to be replaced to accommodate the heavy duty axle?
If replacing the knuckle only would get me the heavy axle and i spend a few extra hundreds of $$'s is nothing compared to hurting or killing someone. Any comment/suggestions on the practicality of this would be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again.

d page

 

[J.Wondergem]

It would appear you can measure the length on ASAP and get the right one. Regardless where you go I wouldn’t take a chance on a used spindle buy new from here or elsewhere if there’s a loader on it a lot bigger tractors have broken knees from that size loader. The wish for it not to happen again is a good wish but this is a failure point and always has been. They make the loader more than capable enough to handle its rated capacity but the tractor isn’t. Go drive to the coop scale with a bucket fullest you ever do and see what it says then look at the original weight of your tractor. The weight of your loaded bucket is over 1/3 of the tractor it means your stressing those spindles. In your case your tractor weighs 4210 bare. So 1400 lbs is where you need to quit and if you are bouncing across the field with it much sooner. That loader can probably pick up over a ton with some effort and ballast my 146 does

I agree. I bought a front axle that was sunk in the mud. Didn't take long before the spindles broke.

 

[Jim.ME]

Jim.me, thanks for your details!
from your comment on the 'heavy axle' it seems that since breaking front spindle is "not that uncommon" and considering my use of the loader, if a spindle were to break with the bucket loaded and raised high it could result i think very easily in some getting killed or hurt by the tractor turning over. Either the driver or someone below! Accordingly my question: Would buying a heavier 'knuckle' (heavy duty axle) allow me to put that in the existing housing of my tractor of does that ALSO need to be replaced to accommodate the heavy duty axle?
If replacing the knuckle only would get me the heavy axle and i spend a few extra hundreds of $$'s is nothing compared to hurting or killing someone. Any comment/suggestions on the practicality of this would be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again.

d page

And now you know why it is recommended that the load be kept low to the ground when traveling. Yes, breaking a spindle could flip the tractor. even if it doesn't your ribs won't like kissing the steering wheel. A couple guys have told me that was worse than the surprise of the drop and stop. And a weakened knuckle/spindle can break just bouncing across the field with nothing on the loader.

You can use the parts book I gave you the link to for comparing such, the axle options are there. I will answer that your axle and the heavy axle are not the same so you can't just buy a knuckle and make yourself an upgrade. The knees, thrust bearing set ups, tie rod arms and knuckles are different at a glance. The heavy-duty knees may not fit your front axle (as there is a heavy-duty axle) and other steering parts may be different. Short answer is NO.

If you are really worried about it, and you do a lot with the loader, you might want to look for an industrial loader tractor like a 301, 401, 310, 410 series. Heavier front ends and the loaders are heavier and better supported to avoid breaking the tractor in two. Some had three-point hitches and PTOs with two stage clutches. Many have reversers.

 

[d page]

Breaking a spindle (knuckle) on a farm tractor with a loader is not uncommon, the loader adds stress to the front-end components, and you say you have added an oversize box (bucket). I would not say it was cut; it looks like fatigue over time to me. The lever (which is keyed and clamped to the knuckle) being welded to the knuckle, says it has had some hard use. You are lucky, it looks like the hub is salvageable, many break chunks out of the hub when the axle drops so you get to replace it as well.

Here is a link to the 1020 parts catalog (guessing you have the 1965 - 1973 vintage 1020).

PC 970

Using section 80 Wheels, Front Axles, Sheet Metal, you need to identify which axle you have. From your pictures I would start by looking at the page titled: "FRONT AXLE KNEE, SPINDLE AND KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY (SWEPT BACK ADJUSTABLE FRONT AXLE) 1118-1676MM (44"-66") (LU, RU) 1219-1981MM (48"-78") (RU) (STRAIGHT ADJUSTABLE FRONT AXLE) 1219-2032MM (48"-80") (RU, HU) 1473-2350MM (58"-92-1/2") (RU) 1524-2235MM (60"-88") [03F18] - 80-10e". It doesn't appear you have the heavy duty axle.
The part that broke is called a knuckle by JD. I think you can save the lever the tie rod hooks to with a bit of work using a grinder. Grind the weld off, remove the clamp bolt, spread the ears a bit with a wedge and remove it. Remove the 1/4" key from the knuckle shaft that indexed the lever then the knuckle will slide down out of the knee. There are bushings in the knee, however you will likely want to just slide the new knuckle in to get going. You should replace the seals, washers, and thrust bearing used with the knuckle in the axle knee. You will want to look the wheel bearings over, the inner one in praticular, for damage and replace the wheel seal. You can Identify which knuckle you have by using the vertical measurements they give.

As far as which one of the aftermarket ones is best, your guess is as good as any. Many are likely made in the same place anyway. JD owns A&I so some might say that is the best aftermarket one. I have used a number of different ones based on what is available, as you generally have to get something quick to get back in operation. I did a similar one last week. JD wants about $700 for an OEM Knuckle, $175 for the A&I one from them. You might check your dealer, they might have an A&I one in stock, one of the local dealers here had one. A bit more than you can find one on line but may be worth it if you need the tractor going.

I guess i don't know what vendor A&I you are refer to above? Is this A&I you are referring to:

https://allpartsstore.com/ItemList.htm.

Attached are some better closeup pics of both sides of the spindle failure.
The spindle part that remained in the wheel was removed and i fit it against the other part that remained in the knee, and and although it wouldn't fit perfectly due to the interference of the wood block it was sitting on, my theory of a 'cut' is clearly wrong, as it seemed to fit almost perfectly with NO gap that a cut would have produced. Will check further when i get it out of the tractor.

 

[Jim.ME]

I guess i don't know what vendor A&I you are refer to above? Is this A&I you are referring to:

https://allpartsstore.com/ItemList.htm.

Attached are some better closeup pics of both sides of the spindle failure.
The spindle part that remained in the wheel was removed and i fit it against the other part that remained in the knee, and and although it wouldn't fit perfectly due to the interference of the wood block it was sitting on, my theory of a 'cut' is clearly wrong, as it seemed to fit almost perfectly with NO gap that a cut would have produced. Will check further when i get it out of the tractor.View attachment 1709View attachment 1710

A&I is a parts brand/manufacturer/supplier owned by John Deere. Theory of some is that JD sells the A&I replacement parts as alternates to the OEM JD parts is that they are better. Some parts sellers handle A&I brand parts as well. It appears the site you linked does sell A&I.

As an FYI, your link does not work as linking to other vendors which are competitors to YT and its parent company (All Staes Ag Parts) is not allowed. The site filters will block the links and sometimes have blocked complete posts. YT and ASAP provide the site for free use, so it stands to reason they don't want to advertise for the competition.

The break in your spindle is from stress or fatigue. Perhaps there was a weak spot in the material when it was made and that was the starting point, I seen a number of spindles, knuckles, and other parts with similar breaks. Without the added forces put on it by your loader use, it might have lasted for a lot more years. It is not a cut, a cut would show smoothsides or kerf lines not the texture of the metal seen in your pictures.

 

[d page]

A&I is a parts brand/manufacturer/supplier owned by John Deere. Theory of some is that JD sells the A&I replacement parts as alternates to the OEM JD parts is that they are better. Some parts sellers handle A&I brand parts as well. It appears the site you linked does sell A&I.

As an FYI, your link does not work as linking to other vendors which are competitors to YT and its parent company (All Staes Ag Parts) is not allowed. The site filters will block the links and sometimes have blocked complete posts. YT and ASAP provide the site for free use, so it stands to reason they don't want to advertise for the competition.

The break in your spindle is from stress or fatigue. Perhaps there was a weak spot in the material when it was made and that was the starting point, I seen a number of spindles, knuckles, and other parts with similar breaks. Without the added forces put on it by your loader use, it might have lasted for a lot more years. It is not a cut, a cut would show smoothsides or kerf lines not the texture of the metal seen in your pictures.

Thanks for your reply and your info on URLs of competitors.
Do you believe there is any evidence that substantiates the parts from A&I are better?

Your point on the kerf marks left by a saw, and the lack of any kerf space visible when i put the parts together is the reason i changed my thoughts on the spindle being sawed, or ground.
Thanks

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for your reply and your info on URLs of competitors.
Do you believe there is any evidence that substantiates the parts from A&I are better?

Your point on the kerf marks left by a saw, and the lack of any kerf space visible when i put the parts together is the reason i changed my thoughts on the spindle being sawed, or ground.
Thanks

I have used A&I and other brands. I have no evidence that there is a difference in them that justifies A&I over another. The biggest thing may be that JD likely supplies specs and drawings to A&I where it is likely the others have to reverse engineer a JD part to duplicate it.

 

[d page]

I have used A&I and other brands. I have no evidence that there is a difference in them that justifies A&I over another. The biggest thing may be that JD likely supplies specs and drawings to A&I where it is likely the others have to reverse engineer a JD part to duplicate it.

Finally, back working on my 1020 broken spindle, after the death of my dear friend and neighbor.
I have everything removed from the knuckle except the tie rod end and would like some clarification on how to remove it from the steering arm.
The OEM service manual says "unscrew retaining nuts part way and use a tie rod tool to pry ball joints loose from steering bell crank and steering arm...".
Is this what the manual is referring to?

If so it seems like inserting it between the ball joint and the steering arm might damage some of the ball joint, or is that wrong? I have a tool like this if that is what is needed.

Also a video for a JD 2030 @ 9:17 min shows a different method of hitting the side of the steering arm while prying down on the tie rod. That seems kind of brute force technique, or is that acceptable?

attached is a pic of the steering arm.

A little remedial instruction would be appreciated.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

A little bit of both of those techniques is often used I just have a harbor freight set of those for a hammer. There’s a similar device for an air hammer that costs more. That also works well. It’s best to have a ball joint around if you are this far anyway but sometimes if it’s tight you can save it. Vibration from air hammer with fat flat end somewhere not visible on the part of the spindle. In this case that’s broke so have at it

 

[Jim.ME]

Finally, back working on my 1020 broken spindle, after the death of my dear friend and neighbor.
I have everything removed from the knuckle except the tie rod end and would like some clarification on how to remove it from the steering arm.
The OEM service manual says "unscrew retaining nuts part way and use a tie rod tool to pry ball joints loose from steering bell crank and steering arm...".
Is this what the manual is referring to?


View attachment 2837
If so it seems like inserting it between the ball joint and the steering arm might damage some of the ball joint, or is that wrong? I have a tool like this if that is what is needed.

Also a video for a JD 2030 @ 9:17 min shows a different method of hitting the side of the steering arm while prying down on the tie rod. That seems kind of brute force technique, or is that acceptable?

A little remedial instruction would be appreciated.

No need to unhook the tie rod. You have to remove the steering arm to pull the spindle. If your arm is like the one in the video (which appears to be the heavy duty one), just remove the keeper bolt from the top of the spindle and tap down on the spindle the arm will come off the spindle. If you have the regular arm, it is split and has a horizontal clamp bolt holding it tight to the spindle. Remove the clamp bolt and slightly spread the split, the arm should lift off. There is a woodruff key in the side of the spindle under the arm. Remove the key and the spindle will slide down out of the knee. No need to unhook the tie rod.

Now seeing the second picture, which I believe is yours, remove the clamp bolt from the arm, spread slightly with a wedge or such and you can work the arm up and off the spindle. Once it is off, remove the key, that indexes the arm to the spindle, from the spindle and the spindle will go down and out of the knee.

 

[Jim.ME]

A little bit of both of those techniques is often used I just have a harbor freight set of those for a hammer. There’s a similar device for an air hammer that costs more. That also works well. It’s best to have a ball joint around if you are this far anyway but sometimes if it’s tight you can save it. Vibration from air hammer with fat flat end somewhere not visible on the part of the spindle. In this case that’s broke so have at it

No need to remove that tie rod, just remove the arm from the spindle which has to be done to get the spindle out anyway.

 

[d page]

Thanks to Jim.me and Fixing Farmer for you helpful replies!

Of course, big oversight on my part on no need to remove the arm from the tie rod.

However, since the arm was welded to the top of the king pin, I am concerned that the keyway(s) in either the arm of the king pin (or both) are messed up.
If that's the case i may have to remove the arm to replace it. So a couple of questions:
1. If need be, how do i get the arm off the end of the tie rod once it's off the spindle?
2. Originally i was going to use my forklift to pick up the front end of the tractor to allow enough ground clearance to pull the king pin out the bottom, BUT my forks are only 40" long and won't go deep enough to lift both sides of the tractor ( would use two heavy pieces of steel placed across the forks to span the bottom part of the left and right axle then lift the front end of the tractor high enough to remove the king pin., But on looking, it appears an easier way might be to remove the outer part of the axle that has the king pin (just two bolts are now in the multiple holes) while still supporting the inner part with the jack. Then just remove that part (outer axle/king pin housing & knuckle) then replace it once removed then replace). Do you guys concur with that as an easier approach given what i have to work with?
Thanks,
Dennis

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks to Jim.me and Fixing Farmer for you helpful replies!

Of course, big oversight on my part on no need to remove the arm from the tie rod.

However, since the arm was welded to the top of the king pin, I am concerned that the keyway(s) in either the arm of the king pin (or both) are messed up.
If that's the case i may have to remove the arm to replace it. So a couple of questions:
1. If need be, how do i get the arm off the end of the tie rod once it's off the spindle?
2. Originally i was going to use my forklift to pick up the front end of the tractor to allow enough ground clearance to pull the king pin out the bottom, BUT my forks are only 40" long and won't go deep enough to lift both sides of the tractor ( would use two heavy pieces of steel placed across the forks to span the bottom part of the left and right axle then lift the front end of the tractor high enough to remove the king pin., But on looking, it appears an easier way might be to remove the outer part of the axle that has the king pin (just two bolts are now in the multiple holes) while still supporting the inner part with the jack. Then just remove that part (outer axle/king pin housing & knuckle) then replace it once removed then replace). Do you guys concur with that as an easier approach given what i have to work with?
Thanks,
Dennis

I had forgot about the weld, I had to go back to the beginning of the thread to see the weld picture, I see now the latest second picture of the steering arm is not of your tractor's arm, it is just a steering arm.

To free the tie rod end I would set up a jack (or solid blocking), under the arm, as close to the tie rod end as possible to prevent movement and take arm deflection away. Run a nut (use a regular nut if yours has a stop or castle nut) down close, or flush, with the end of the ball stud treads, it only needs a tiny gap between the nut and arm. Strike a few hammer blows horizontal on the end of the arm while prying down on the tie rod (always close to the socket), sometimes that is all it takes. If that doesn't work, I would try striking straight down on the nut while prying down on the tie rod, after making sure the arm was still blocked solidly. If you have an oxy/act torch, wrap the joint boot in a wet rag and put some quick heat to the top of the arm at the thinnest area around the stud.

There are a number of other methods, the "pickle" fork is one (those can destroy the rubber boot). A bearing separator and puller can make a press to push on the stud. More suggestions will likely be coming.

I would cut/grind the weld away and try to save the arm on the chance it is salvageable, you know the spindle is junk so it won't hurt if you gouge into it. True the arm may be the problem, but it could be the key or the spindle.

I have been lucky in that the ones I've replaced had loaders with down pressure and were able to lift the front high enough to change the spindles. We got them up with the bucket and blocking, then put a big jackstand or blocking under the axle on the broken side. In your case it may be easier for you to block the tractor up and pull the knee off.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

No need to remove that tie rod, just remove the arm from the spindle which has to be done to get the spindle out anyway.

Very true I should have looked at that picture closer

 

[flying belgian]

In the middle of pecan harvest the right front spindle snapped off!
I have the 48 front end loader and have added a larger pecan box to the existing bucket to enable transport of pecans from tarp to trailer.
To me there is fairly clear evidence of some existing damage to the spindle prior to this catastrophic failure.
See pics of the end view of what was left on the tractor after the spindle sheared off and the tire rolled away, and the other side of the fractured spindle that remained in the wheel bearing.
Also the steering arm has been welded to the top of the king pin (pic attached)

I have the JD OEM Service Manual but I'll be darned if i can find where removal of the king pin is detailed.

My questions:
1. It seems reasonable evident that the weld of the steering arm to the top of the king pin will be need to be ground off to remove the front spindle.
Among the required parts i think will be needed:
Front spindle
Steering Arm
Bearing seal
??

ASAP shows 7 spindles for a 1020 w/ a huge price range from $140 to $250

Search results for: 'john deere 1020 right front axle'

All States Ag Parts is the leading supplier of tractor, combine, skid steer and other ag-related parts to North America. We sell new aftermarket, remanufactured and used parts.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

Quality often requires paying for same.
I want to be sure i get a GOOD quality spindle so this won't happen again, at the same time not pay more than i need to.
Any recommendations on manufacturers/vendors that provide quality parts?

2. Any cautions, tips or recommendations on accomplishing this repair?
View attachment 1615View attachment 1616View attachment 1617
3. From the pics it can be seen what to me appears to be 2 areas of the spindle that look like the spindle had been partially cut through at two locations that are diametrically opposed. Leaving something around a 20 to 30 % reduction in shear area PLUS the stress concentrations that would produce. Which would easily explain why the spindle failed. Hard to imagine that such a defective part would be used ?! Any thoughts on what the pics of the spindle failure area might reveal?

Regards,
d page

Unless your married to that tractor, and if you say failure of spindle could result in injury or death, I would get a construction type tractor with heavy duty front end.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Yes that knee will probably come out with some work. One thing to add is if you think you will be taking both the tie rod and the arm off the spindle do it while it’s somewhat together at least knock it loose. As in separate tie rod separate arm. Pull knee remove spindle in that order. If you hit tie rod much in any manner including with nut on it consider a new one.