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So I have replaced most of the electrical system including starter/solenoid, upgraded to a 1 wire “fast start” alternator (63 amps), added voltmeter, new glow plug meter, and replaced the old key—>starter button to a convenient turn-key ignition switch. The tractor starts, but then (as I stop turning the key over), it dies. The issue was the same when I had the original setup with the original key/starter button combo, and along with old wiring and bad readings on the plugs, I am working on that next.
I plan to replace all 4 plugs, and install a switch relay powered by the key switch. If I’m right the 4 plugs take about 8 amps each, so 32amps from the alternator’s capacity of 63, so the relay I get shouldn’t need to be more than 35-40 right? I’m not sure of whether they make 35amp relays, or just in steps of 10amps 40), or whether I should just get a 40 amp relay in the first place though. Also should I place the inline 40A fuse before the relay, or after it on the high amp output?
From what I have seen how I would install the electrical lines so that the power to the glow plug setup is only receiving power when the key is on are as follows:
1) ignition key switch (accessory/ignition terminal) feeds the low amp input side of the glow plug relay
2) other end of the low amp side of the relay attaches to ground somewhere on tractor’s chassis
3) high amp input to the relay comes from the same terminal post on the starter that the battery cable/lead from alternator is attached to
4) high amp output then goes to the glow plug switch
5) other terminal on the glow plug switch goes to one side on the glow plug meter
6) other side on the glow plug meter then finally leads to the little “terminal” where the first glow plug is connected to which then provides power to heat the plugs (in series)
Does this sound correct?
Last thing I am unsure about it how it appears that from the output on the glow plug meter are two 12AWG wires ran in parallel (crimped under one o ring terminal) that then runs to the block near the first glow plug, where the same 2 wires (once again crimped under the same 1 connector). Is there any reason for this? Or could I simply have a single 8 or 10 awg wire leading from the meter to the plugs?
I plan to replace all 4 plugs, and install a switch relay powered by the key switch. If I’m right the 4 plugs take about 8 amps each, so 32amps from the alternator’s capacity of 63, so the relay I get shouldn’t need to be more than 35-40 right? I’m not sure of whether they make 35amp relays, or just in steps of 10amps 40), or whether I should just get a 40 amp relay in the first place though. Also should I place the inline 40A fuse before the relay, or after it on the high amp output?
From what I have seen how I would install the electrical lines so that the power to the glow plug setup is only receiving power when the key is on are as follows:
1) ignition key switch (accessory/ignition terminal) feeds the low amp input side of the glow plug relay
2) other end of the low amp side of the relay attaches to ground somewhere on tractor’s chassis
3) high amp input to the relay comes from the same terminal post on the starter that the battery cable/lead from alternator is attached to
4) high amp output then goes to the glow plug switch
5) other terminal on the glow plug switch goes to one side on the glow plug meter
6) other side on the glow plug meter then finally leads to the little “terminal” where the first glow plug is connected to which then provides power to heat the plugs (in series)
Does this sound correct?
Last thing I am unsure about it how it appears that from the output on the glow plug meter are two 12AWG wires ran in parallel (crimped under one o ring terminal) that then runs to the block near the first glow plug, where the same 2 wires (once again crimped under the same 1 connector). Is there any reason for this? Or could I simply have a single 8 or 10 awg wire leading from the meter to the plugs?