Light switch for 1650 Oliver

[scootergmc]

If you have no power to the switch, then the problem lies before. Check the fuse. Good fuse and still no power, chase the feed wire back to where it originates, which should be the start switch. Chances are on a 60 year old tractor, someone fuddled with the wiring more than once. A wiring diagram is as useful as the originality of the tractor at this point.

 

[Jim.ME]

Probe? To check for power? No power to switch, even with ignition key turned on.


View attachment 71287

You are correct, a probe/test light isn't going to work where you don't have power. It would confirm battery power at the outgoing side of the fuse that is supposed to feed the light switch B terminal.

Remember you will need to find both ends of the wire, with no power connected, to check with an ohmmeter/continuity tester.

That wiring diagram has the info, follow it and match your tractor's wires.

 

[sonnythomas]

Having 2 black wires, on the terminal with the yellow one, may be a mistake looking at the wiring drawing. The wiring diagram shows one black wire to the dash lights, it splits into two wires once away from the switch terminal, on the terminal with the yellow wire (front flood lights). Find all the dash lights and follow the wire(s) back to the switch to confirm if it is one at the switch or two. The starter switch is where power to the light fuse is taken from and the wire between the starter switch and fuse is shown as black. The wire from the fuse to the light switch battery might also be black. As scootergmc said follow the wire from the fuse (and see the color). That wire from the fuse needs to land on the light switch B terminal (end terminal opposite the knob end of the switch).

Pulled cover and checked again. All wires go into the harness - no sign being cut. Wiped wires to make sure what I show here. No black wire at this point.
Both fuses are good - Left fuse - temperature and gas gauge working. Center fuse is for lights. Right fuse for electric hydraulic thingy - wires are off where main cable enters top of hydraulic pump (I guess).

Got the wires stretch to take pictures. 1st pic - white to left, blue center, green to back (goes to center fuse). 2nd pic - yellow and double green far side.

 

[sonnythomas]

deleted

 

[sonnythomas]

If you have no power to the switch, then the problem lies before. Check the fuse. Good fuse and still no power, chase the feed wire back to where it originates, which should be the start switch. Chances are on a 60 year old tractor, someone fuddled with the wiring more than once. A wiring diagram is as useful as the originality of the tractor at this point.

See post #23. Wires don't show being cut and harness doesn't show being re-taped.

 

[sonnythomas]

At this point I'd just like to know what terminal is supposed to be "hot." Like my brother gave, just run wire from the battery to the switch and see if anything works.
Again, I jumped the lights from the battery. Head lights, rear flood light and right red taillight all work.

 

[Jim.ME]

At this point I'd just like to know what terminal is supposed to be "hot." Like my brother gave, just run wire from the battery to the switch and see if anything works.
Again, I jumped the lights from the battery. Head lights, rear flood light and right red taillight all work.

The drawing shows you that power goes to the terminal of the switch at the opposite end from the knob. I marked the wire in red and pointed an arrow at the terminal for you. This of course means the switch has to be the right one to match the drawing. Do you have power to the fuse and out of it? Run a wire from the fuse to the indicated terminal, if that wire is missing.

 

[scootergmc]

At this point I'd just like to know what terminal is supposed to be "hot." Like my brother gave, just run wire from the battery to the switch and see if anything works.
Again, I jumped the lights from the battery. Head lights, rear flood light and right red taillight all work.

The wire from the 20a fuse is "hot" and the "hot" terminal should be the farthest terminal from the handle of the switch (I think where you have the yellow wire connected). Have you checked for power at the fuse? Then through the fuse? What color comes from the fuse? The wiring diagram shows no standalone yellow, so that single yellow connection where the hot terminal is has me confused.

 

[Jim.ME]

At this point I'd just like to know what terminal is supposed to be "hot." Like my brother gave, just run wire from the battery to the switch and see if anything works.
Again, I jumped the lights from the battery. Head lights, rear flood light and right red taillight all work.

The single yellow should be front flood lights according to the drawing and belongs on the same terminal as the dash lights.

Unhook the wires from the switch and apply power to each wire, see what light(s) comes on, and make a list to see if your wire colors match the drawing. I put markings on your picture of the switch terminals, as to what function goes where according to the drawing (since the colors may not match the drawing), perhaps this will help you.

 

[scootergmc]

That's a good photo there....

 

[sonnythomas]

The drawing shows you that power goes to the terminal of the switch at the opposite end from the knob. I marked the wire in red and pointed an arrow at the terminal for you. This of course means the switch has to be the right one to match the drawing. Do you have power to the fuse and out of it? Run a wire from the fuse to the indicated terminal, if that wire is missing.

View attachment 71336

I have that in red. Believe I have a bad fuse holder. Tracked the wires. Power to fuse but not coming out. Fuse checks good.

 

[sonnythomas]

The single yellow should be front flood lights according to the drawing and belongs on the same terminal as the dash lights.

Unhook the wires from the switch and apply power to each wire, see what light(s) comes on, and make a list to see if your wire colors match the drawing. I put markings on your picture of the switch terminals, as to what function goes where according to the drawing (since the colors may not match the drawing), perhaps this will help you.

View attachment 71355

Your yellow arrow is the power terminal, but only a single wire coming off of it. The yellow wire you see goes with the double green wires.
As I noted above, I've got power to fuse but not coming out. My back is killing me, leaning over the steering wheel and testing this and that. I'm wore out. I have a new fuse holder. Will continue tomorrow.

Perhaps the confusion. Only one wire on the back terminal. Wires have all kinds of black on them. I had to scrape the wires to see what color they are.

I need to replace the wire end and clean the wire - you can see the exposed wire and the black crud covering the green. Red is tracking the green wire - bent badly - again, looks black but is green - can just see the green inside the red circle. I had loosen nuts of other wires on the ignition to get other terminals so I check them. Not all that easy loosening nuts and moving wires that's been in place for 60 years.

Just luck that I ordered a new fuse holder from Korves.

Thanks. I don't know which was worse, leaning over the steering wheel checking stuff or climbing up and down the tractor.

 

[sonnythomas]

Whoops. Just in case. To clear up things. The white, blue and single green wire are on individual terminals. The Yellow and double green wires are together on one terminal.

 

[scootergmc]

Whoops. Just in case. To clear up things. The white, blue and single green wire are on individual terminals. The Yellow and double green wires are together on one terminal.

I think you probably have it correct.

 

[Jim.ME]

Your yellow arrow is the power terminal, but only a single wire coming off of it. The yellow wire you see goes with the double green wires.
As I noted above, I've got power to fuse but not coming out. My back is killing me, leaning over the steering wheel and testing this and that. I'm wore out. I have a new fuse holder. Will continue tomorrow.

Perhaps the confusion. Only one wire on the back terminal. Wires have all kinds of black on them. I had to scrape the wires to see what color they are.

I need to replace the wire end and clean the wire - you can see the exposed wire and the black crud covering the green. Red is tracking the green wire - bent badly - again, looks black but is green - can just see the green inside the red circle. I had loosen nuts of other wires on the ignition to get other terminals so I check them. Not all that easy loosening nuts and moving wires that's been in place for 60 years.

Just luck that I ordered a new fuse holder from Korves.

View attachment 71378

Thanks. I don't know which was worse, leaning over the steering wheel checking stuff or climbing up and down the tractor.

I saw the two wires on the dash and front lights terminal. The colors of the arrows, I used to point at the terminal were only to stand out against the background. They were to point out terminal function, not to indicate the wire colors to be on a terminal.

I have found colors can be faded, or different than shown on a drawing, and trying to just go by colors can lead to confusion. Paint and having to scrape the insulation can lead to color changes. You said you could make all the lights work when you put power on the wires. In cases like this I make a list of the wires by the colors as I identify them (I add something for an identifier, to each one, if they are all the same color. I unhook the wires at the switch and put power to each wire in turn, see what light comes on, and note it on my list beside that wire so I know what its function is.

All indications, from the drawing, are that the rear terminal should only have the one wire bringing power from the fuse to it. I may have missed it but I don't see you confirmed a wire from the fuse holder to the switch, or a color for it. Even though power is not coming out of the fuse holder, is the wire that should go to the switch there? Can you tell its color? Does that same color appear at the switch? If so, use your ohm meter to check it for continuity. If it checks, good hooking it to the end terminal of the switch and a good fuse/holder should give you power at the switch.

Hopefully your new fuse holder solves the problem.

 

[sonnythomas]

I saw the two wires on the dash and front lights terminal. The colors of the arrows, I used to point at the terminal were only to stand out against the background. They were to point out terminal function, not to indicate the wire colors to be on a terminal.

I have found colors can be faded, or different than shown on a drawing, and trying to just go by colors can lead to confusion. Paint and having to scrape the insulation can lead to color changes. You said you could make all the lights work when you put power on the wires. In cases like this I make a list of the wires by the colors as I identify them (I add something for an identifier, to each one, if they are all the same color. I unhook the wires at the switch and put power to each wire in turn, see what light comes on, and note it on my list beside that wire so I know what its function is.

All indications, from the drawing, are that the rear terminal should only have the one wire bringing power from the fuse to it. I may have missed it but I don't see you confirmed a wire from the fuse holder to the switch, or a color for it. Even though power is not coming out of the fuse holder, is the wire that should go to the switch there? Can you tell its color? Does that same color appear at the switch? If so, use your ohm meter to check it for continuity. If it checks, good hooking it to the end terminal of the switch and a good fuse/holder should give you power at the switch.

Hopefully your new fuse holder solves the problem.

Me got lights. New fuse holder did it. Still tracking down the blue wire to the rear flood lamp. Just one instrument light working - for Amp gauge.

 

[sonnythomas]

I think you probably have it correct.

Me got it. See above post #36.

Really, thanks to all.

 

[sonnythomas]

I think you probably have it correct.

Lots of green wires down inside. Isn't until they get somewhere that another color shows.

 

[sonnythomas]

Got it all. As per manual - 1st pull - head lights and rear flood light. 2nd pull - head lights and taillight. Rear flood shuts off. Says warning light but I don't have one and I can't find a place where one was. I'm calling it good - done other than getting some fancy connecters.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Got it all. As per manual - 1st pull - head lights and rear flood light. 2nd pull - head lights and taillight. Rear flood shuts off. Says warning light but I don't have one and I can't find a place where one was. I'm calling it good - done other than getting some fancy connecters.

Napa connectors. Very similar to the Oliver and White's.
Probably won't have on the shelf.
GG