Ferguson tractor

[Jim.ME]

As I posted before:

''Your earlier descriptions sound like you need to adjust the clutch and free up the brake levers and pedal so those are working as they should, and see how it acts then, before diving deep into it.''

If the pedals and linkages are not moving freely, adjusted, and working as they were designed, they can be affecting the operation of each other at points where they interact, which could cause operational abnormalizes.

Rust, or other contamination, as well as sticking may be affecting the smoothness of your clutch operation. If it is rust from setting some of that may clear up as it is run. Make sure pivots in the linkage are free and lubricated. Adjust to spec. I don't have a TEA20 manual but a TE20 manual I found shows 3/16'' free travel measured between the bottom of the radius rod ball bracket and the top of the clutch pedal shaft. You should get the manual for your tractor and use the info in it, but this should give you a starting point if you don't have the manual.

 

[Dave murray]

[quot="Jim.ME"](reply to post at 05:39:13 12/16/23) [/quote] thanks Jim,I think I may use it some before I adjust the clutch incase it is just rust from sitting identical want to adjust if it doesn't need it in fear of over adjusting it.

 

[Jim.ME]

At least check the free play. It is pretty simple to just measure the free play, it might be ok now, and not need adjusting. At least then you know it has free play and you aren't slipping the clutch or constantly loading the throwout bearing. If the free play is ok, then riding the pedal a bit, a few times, may help smooth the engagement.

 

[Dave murray]

well I tried pushing up the manure pile,didn't get far.the clutch is so grabbed it was just leaving ruts in the grass so didn't do much.tires are like new with aggressive tread and I didn't want to make a mess. Think all try adjusting the clutch and see if it makes a difference. On the bright side I put new plugs in it and it's running a bit better. Made short video of free play in the clutch I,ll try and post it[/img:9364638a91][/url]

 

[Dave murray]

 

[Jim.ME]

Dave here is some info on posting pictures and videos. your picture of the oil did work in your other post.

You cannot paste pictures directly from your device into posts here. To post pictures look down the page a bit from the box where you type a reply, and you will see a bar that says ''Upload Photos/Videos''. Below that is a button that says ''Choose Files''. Click on that button to go to your device where you can search the files in your device (computer, tablet, phone) to find the picture you want post, select your picture, then click the ''Open'' button and the program will upload that picture to your post. There is a size limit of about 7 MB of pictures/video per post (not per thread). That can be one picture or the total of several pictures in a post. This is the same in Modern and Classic views. Some cell phone pictures need to be reduced before they will post. And sometimes it takes a bit for them to upload, so don't hurry the process and use the preview button to see that the picture(s) is there before hitting submit.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 12/16/2023 at 04:52 pm.

 

[Dave murray]

At least check the free play. It is pretty simple to just measure the free play, it might be ok now, and not need adjusting. At least then you know it has free play and you aren't slipping the clutch or constantly loading the throwout bearing. If the free play is ok, then riding the pedal a bit, a few times, may help smooth the engagement.

I have about 3/4" free play.watched some you tube videos on how to adjust it and think I made it worse,now it grinding when I try to engage the people and grinding when I first put it in gear,after I ve put it gear a couple times it down,t grind when putting it in gear.pto still grinds a bit even after it has warmed up.think I used try adjusting the clutch again?

 

[Jim.ME]

I have about 3/4" free play.watched some you tube videos on how to adjust it and think I made it worse,now it grinding when I try to engage the people and grinding when I first put it in gear,after I ve put it gear a couple times it down,t grind when putting it in gear.pto still grinds a bit even after it has warmed up.think I used try adjusting the clutch again?

Don't hurry when putting it into a gear especially when it is cold. There are no synchronizers in the transmission to help align the spinning gears and cold (thicK) oil can keep them turning as well. 3/4" of free play (at the pedal) doesn't sound bad.

 

[Brown David]

I'm not quite sure what you've got there. TEA-20? If it is the main brake pedal is one piece and operates both brakes. If you want individual braking there is a separate lever toward the wheel and back a bit on both sides. I'm not sure if a locked or limited slip axle was an option on those.

I've never seen one with a diferential lock.

 

[Brown David]

Interesting. That's not how they should work of course. Somebody must have gone to a lot of trouble to do make it work that way and probably made it difficult to change it back to the original. When I step on my TE-20 main brake the individual brake levers rise. Just the opposite of how you would think. But when I push down on the individual levers it applies the brake to that side only.

Yep, that's how they're supposed to work.

 

[Dave murray]

Don't hurry when putting it into a gear especially when it is cold. There are no synchronizers in the transmission to help align the spinning gears and cold (thicK) oil can keep them turning as well. 3/4" of free play (at the pedal) doesn't sound bad.

When I put in first gear the first time the tractor moves forward a few inches even pushing the clutch down as far as I can,then it seems fine afterwards.

 

[Jim.ME]

When I put in first gear the first time the tractor moves forward a few inches even pushing the clutch down as far as I can,then it seems fine afterwards.

Do you have a manual (operator's or service) for it? Do you know how/where to adjust the clutch? Now might be a good time to actually adjust the clutch to the specification. I don't have a manual but in looking a one for a TE 20 online it looks like you should have 3/16" between the bottom of the radius rod cap and the top of the clutch pedal lever when the pedal is held down to where you just feel the throwout bearing contacting the pressure plate fingers. If you measure more than 3/16" you may not have quite enough travel to fully disengage the clutch.

 

[Dave murray]

Do you have a manual (operator's or service) for it? Do you know how/where to adjust the clutch? Now might be a good time to actually adjust the clutch to the specification. I don't have a manual but in looking a one for a TE 20 online it looks like you should have 3/16" between the bottom of the radius rod cap and the top of the clutch pedal lever when the pedal is held down to where you just feel the throwout bearing contacting the pressure plate fingers. If you measure more than 3/16" you may not have quite enough travel to fully disengage the clutch.

I don,t have a manual yet,I watched multiple videos on you tube and they all did it the same way put a 6mm nut between the pedal and the other pedal tie the clutch pedal to the steering wheel and turn the adjustment nut clockwise till you feel resistance or hear it click as far as it will go ,then back it off hair and tighten the nuts.i did it a couple times. I may try it again one day right now where in the middle of a major winter storm so not being to play with it for a while.theres a company called farm manuals fast where I can order one but all the reviews on that company aren't by good .I just want to get it working the best I can and clean it up and sell it.i,m not going to keep it.

 

[Dave murray]

So I sent my tea 20 out for a new clutch. Turned out the rear main seal was leaking and the clutch was all gummed up. I will be getting it back this week. My tires aren't loaded and I want to use the front loader. I was thinking of making a concrete weight for the back for more traction.i was thinking around 400lbs. Would that be to hard on the hydraulics to carry just when using the loader?