Best Practices for IH Wet Sleeve Engines (886, 986, 1066, etc.)

[SouthernFarmall]

I’m looking to purchase either an IH 886, 986, or 1066 to put to work. From what I’ve read, these tractors seem to be solid except for a weak point caused by cavitation in the cooling system, which destroys the sleeves. I’ve never been around any IH wet sleeve engines before, so I’m trying to learn what I can before I make a purchase.

For these tractors, it seems like some people advocate for coolant filters, and other people talk about coolant conditioners and changing the coolant every few years, and other people say that I should use a test strip (I’m not sure what these are or where to get them) in the coolant to check it every 6 months or so.

The bottom line is that I can’t afford to buy a tractor with a rebuilt engine and have it fail after 1,000 hours due to something like cavitation in the coolant.

What are the actual best practices for giving these engines a long useful life of several thousand hours? I know that some types of coolant are bad to mix together, so specific brand names of good coolants and/or conditioners would be helpful. Is there a certain coolant flush interval that I need to follow? And do I need to add a coolant filter kit?

Any other info would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Janicholson]

I’m looking to purchase either an IH 886, 986, or 1066 to put to work. From what I’ve read, these tractors seem to be solid except for a weak point caused by cavitation in the cooling system, which destroys the sleeves. I’ve never been around any IH wet sleeve engines before, so I’m trying to learn what I can before I make a purchase.

For these tractors, it seems like some people advocate for coolant filters, and other people talk about coolant conditioners and changing the coolant every few years, and other people say that I should use a test strip (I’m not sure what these are or where to get them) in the coolant to check it every 6 months or so.

The bottom line is that I can’t afford to buy a tractor with a rebuilt engine and have it fail after 1,000 hours due to something like cavitation in the coolant.

What are the actual best practices for giving these engines a long useful life of several thousand hours? I know that some types of coolant are bad to mix together, so specific brand names of good coolants and/or conditioners would be helpful. Is there a certain coolant flush interval that I need to follow? And do I need to add a coolant filter kit?

Any other info would be appreciated. Thanks!

Conditioner standard
A owners manual and following the service procedures outlined there will prevent that issue from being "discovered". They have the problem when neglected. Jim

 

[SouthernFarmall]

Conditioner standard
A owners manual and following the service procedures outlined there will prevent that issue from being "discovered". They have the problem when neglected. Jim

Thanks. I’ll definitely buy the manual if I buy one of those tractors. But I just wanted to get an idea of what it would take so that I knew what I was getting into first before I made the final decision.

 

[wore out]

I’m looking to purchase either an IH 886, 986, or 1066 to put to work. From what I’ve read, these tractors seem to be solid except for a weak point caused by cavitation in the cooling system, which destroys the sleeves. I’ve never been around any IH wet sleeve engines before, so I’m trying to learn what I can before I make a purchase.

For these tractors, it seems like some people advocate for coolant filters, and other people talk about coolant conditioners and changing the coolant every few years, and other people say that I should use a test strip (I’m not sure what these are or where to get them) in the coolant to check it every 6 months or so.

The bottom line is that I can’t afford to buy a tractor with a rebuilt engine and have it fail after 1,000 hours due to something like cavitation in the coolant.

What are the actual best practices for giving these engines a long useful life of several thousand hours? I know that some types of coolant are bad to mix together, so specific brand names of good coolants and/or conditioners would be helpful. Is there a certain coolant flush interval that I need to follow? And do I need to add a coolant filter kit?

Any other info would be appreciated. Thanks!

Cylinder liner pitting is NOT a "weak point" that pertains only to the tractors you are looking at, it applies to most wet sleeved diesels.

Even certain "parent bore" diesel engines can have the problem.

When buying a used tractor there's nothing you can do to make up for what a P.O. may or may not have done.

All you can do is to follow "best practices" going forward.

Nowadays, the trend seems to be to use approved "pre-charged" coolant and change it at recommended intervals vs. coolant additives and a coolant "filter" that disperses additive into the coolant over time.

It would be GREAT if you have a nearby CIH dealer parts department that is knowledgeable about the older equipment to advise you on what the "latest and greatest" suggestions are.

 

[SouthernFarmall]

Cylinder liner pitting is NOT a "weak point" that pertains only to the tractors you are looking at, it applies to most wet sleeved diesels.

Even certain "parent bore" diesel engines can have the problem.

When buying a used tractor there's nothing you can do to make up for what a P.O. may or may not have done.

All you can do is to follow "best practices" going forward.

Nowadays, the trend seems to be to use approved "pre-charged" coolant and change it at recommended intervals vs. coolant additives and a coolant "filter" that disperses additive into the coolant over time.

It would be GREAT if you have a nearby CIH dealer parts department that is knowledgeable about the older equipment to advise you on what the "latest and greatest" suggestions are.

Thanks. The ones I’m looking at (the 886 and one of the 1066s, anyway) are fresh from an in-frame overhaul, so I’d be starting from a relatively clean slate.

I didn’t mean to imply that the problem can’t be widespread across other wet sleeve or even parent bore engines, just that it applies to these tractors at least.

 

[used red MN]

Maybe you have no reason not to believe that the engines have been overhauled, but to me the “proof is in the pudding” tell them to show you the repair bills. There is also no assurance that they can’t make up phony paperwork, any used tractor is buyer beware.

 

[Highwayman]

I’d look for:
does it have a water filter and has it been changed regularly ?

 

[SouthernFarmall]

I’d look for:
does it have a water filter and has it been changed regularly ?

The tractors that I’m looking at right now do not have water filters. That is part of my concern. I’m pretty confident that the tractors have been overhauled because they’re still in the seller’s shop now getting a few final touches. That’s why I’m trying to figure out if I need to add a water filter to them, or if it will be fine to simply change the coolant every year (and what coolant I should use), or if I should just pass on them because they’re not likely to be reliable.

 

[caterpillar guy]

My maintenance for this issue over the last 20 or more years has been to use test strips . I get them online for the green antifreeze. Yes there is a difference in the strips for the antifreeze used. It has to do with the make up of the antifreeze. Then I test each year when I go around and test for freeze point. I also use a freeze tester with a squeeze bulb to check the freeze point on the antifreeze. The Test strips will do all of it. I''m just more comfortable with the tester for the freeze point. They both read very close to the same on freeze point I guess I use the squeeze bulb tester as a confirmation on that point. I only test once per year on the equipment with wet sleeves. On the semi I test it once per year anymore since it is now just a grain truck and not over the toad anymore. I have not had a problem with cavitation on any of the engines I have been dealing with on the farm with this schedule on them. But again most of them never get more than about a 100 hours per year with 12 tractors 2 combines a telehandler a backhoe and 2 trucks . I'm not saying this is the schedule you have to use it works for me and that is what matters for me. I would say if you want to use the filters that is fine though you still should check it so you know where the levels are that you need to be at. Your operators manual should give a schedule to use according to them. My semi had now got something like a million 2hundred thousand on it with no pitting on it and an inframe at around 500,000 for a cracked sleeve not pitting. The cracks were around the top end of the sleeve. I tried to use the filter deals and they would either go to leaking of the plate/bracket would crack off so I just dumped that idea and check with the test strips. I don't change antifreeze only when I have a hose or something that I need to drain the system then will evaluate the changing of it. This again is not what you or anybody else needs to adhear to but it works for me with very little problems and no big failures of water pumps. I believe we have changed one pump each on the 806 30 years ago 856 about 5-8 years ago and the 1466 about 5-10 years ago all tractors were bought used at different times over the last 46 years for the 806 and the other 2 over the last 10-20 years. Engines include IH, Cat,Cummins Case,Deere. Further questions call me 989 413 5684 if you like .

 

[Texasmark]

I recently bought a 395 and 695 diesel. I thought about concern and apparently I don't have a current problem. In looking at regular antifreeze, Prestone green for one, lists it for cars and "light diesel" trucks (pickups et al). OEM truck stops have diesel with the additive to prevent pitting....(3 letters and I forget them on the additive)... for HD diesel engines without a coolant filter. I used the truck stop coolant when I changed fluids I picked up the last time I got one of their batteries for one of my tractors. A few days ago I was in Atwoods Farm Store and they had several coolant types on the shelf and one was with the additive. So I bought a few gallons to have on hand when fluid change time comes around again just for grins.

Just something to think about.......Heavy duty engines, 400-500+ HP, run 400-500,000 miles between overhauls and pull 80,000# rigs frequently at interstate speeds.......I call that HD service. A tractor that is owned by a small to medium sized operator (STO or MTO) in my opinion no way compares to the HD engine necessity for treated antifreeze and thus the additive or water filter shouldn't be a concern....at least I'm not losing any sleep over it.

 

[John Deere D]

Thanks. The ones I’m looking at (the 886 and one of the 1066s, anyway) are fresh from an in-frame overhaul, so I’d be starting from a relatively clean slate.

I didn’t mean to imply that the problem can’t be widespread across other wet sleeve or even parent bore engines, just that it applies to these tractors at least.

There are Mechanics,and there are Mechanics

. A true Craftsmen will follow an approved by the Manufacturer of the Equipment Service Manuals Procedures. A true Craftsmen will be proud to produce all receipts! A true craftsmen will gladly supply you with previous customers names. If NOT...walk,then run away from the Tractor?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Fun fact, the coolant "filter" is really the additive delivery system for the additive, called SCA.

You can also buy coolant with the SCA already added, or you can add it directly to the coolant yourself.

The filter system ensures that the cooling system has the proper amount of SCA at all times, as long as the filter is maintained.

Adding SCA to an engine of unknown history will not "heal" any damage already done. You pays your money and you takes your chances. Odds are heavily in your favor, though, unless you have a history of bad luck, LOL.

 

[glennster]

i run fleetguard diesel service antifreeze in all our diesels. it has the sca in it already. you can get the test strips at your implement dealer, truck fleet supplier or amazon.

 

[rustred]

its not only these tractors u mentioned, it is basically a lot of diesels. i was in a caterpillar class that the instructor talked heavily about making sure u keep the coolant pressurized was the biggest thing. check and make sure u have a good rad cap. cavitation is caused by the explosion of the diesel fuel which causes the sleeve to vibrate. which causes the coolant go away from the sleeve and during this time causes it to get hot hot as in boiling, then it is slammed back against he cylinder wall which causes this eating effect. keeping these bubbles under pressure keeps them small. and yes keep the coolant filters up to date. so keeping your coolant under proper pressure is the biggest deal in helping prevent cavitation. and i dont think one person mentioned this here.

 

[Texasmark]

i run fleetguard diesel service antifreeze in all our diesels. it has the sca in it already. you can get the test strips at your implement dealer, truck fleet supplier or amazon.

Fleetguard was the product sold at the OTR store.

 

[TomA in CA]

Good information on the pressurization, I did not know that.

 

[JIM MN]

Coolant filter with conditioner or make sure you use coolant test strips and a coolant conditioner ...Keep the acid out of your coolant system...