72-3000 steering spindle top arm connection

WI Dan

Well-known Member
The left wheel is getting skewed out of alignment. It snaps out, then darts back. Drastic wobble. I watched the top of the spindle, it rotates inside the clamp of the arm (maybe thats called a 'pitman arm'?).
I tried tightening the clamp on the arm, but it's not grabbing tight enough on the spindle shaft to withstand the forces of uneven/rocky ground.

How can I get that arm clamp tight?
Can i cut a slot and put a wedge or square stock key in there?
 
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

mvphoto111118.jpg
 

RU43tv5.jpg


There's already a ''woodruff key'' in there, Key #44 in the drawing, style ''A'', 1/4'' x 7/8'', HT, New Holland part #280262.

Likely, the key, the ''pocket'' in the spindle and the keyway in the arm are all worn.
 
I had that same problem on a 3400.
Basically the same set up as a 3000 but
substantially heavier and Much harder
(read expensive) to find parts for.
The keyway was wallowed out - both on the
spindle and arm.
I brought the arm and spindle to a machine
shop and they milled a new keyway in the
spindle and broached a new keyway in the
arm about 90 degrees away from the
original one. It worked fine.
If I had that problem on a 3000 I would
simply full weld the arm to the spindle
and put the tractor back to work.
Not bird crap welding mind you but a Good
weld.
If you ever need to replace the spindle
bushings in it you will have to cut it
apart but as often as not the spindles
need replacing anyway so all you're out is
a steering arm which would be easy to find
used.
I'm generally NOT an advocate of that
kind of farmerization but a good weld
would be quick, cheap, last for many years
and not make anything unrepairable in the
future.
 
-Ultradog MN
I thought about welding it...but I don't have a welder.
I agree - while it would make future work harder, it would get me rolling again for a while.
This tractor has a loader and the truck wheels, the rims are flipped backwards, so the bearings on the hubs are getting worn out. I'd like to someday replace the wheels with proper rib-style, and re-build the entire steering spindle assembly.
 
A faster and more easily serviceable quick-fix would be to simply cross drill through both the arm and spindle and put a bolt through. Something like 1/4-20 with a nylock ought to do nicely.
 
With a proper clearance hole with no slop to bang it around and a grade 8 bolt I can't see the bolt breaking before something else.

The bolt will be in a double shear configuration and will take a heck of a lot of force to shear. Somewhere on the 'net is a chart with the shear ratings, I recall looking up for a 1/2" gr8 and it was like 30,000# shear on the threaded portion single shear.
 
I got my 860 with the spindle key ways worn so the arms were sloppy. New Keys, JB Weld and a file fixed it all up. I just use regular JB Weld Original. Don't use JB Kwik it is not as strong and does not stick as well as original.

Clean your spindle key seats good. I use brake cleaner. Put a good coat of wax on the keys. Wax the outside of the spindle. Don't get any wax in the key slot. Put enough JB in the slot so when you push the key into it, some will ooze out around it. You can wipe off the excess or you can file it off later. Leave that to set up.

For the steering arms, wax up a piece of square key stock the proper size. Let if long enough to stick out both sides of the hole. CLEAN key slots good with brake cleaner. Use JB to glue the keystock into place in the slots in the steering arms.

Let the JB set up good. Leave it at least over night and someplace warm. Your will be able to pop the waxed key stock out of the arms with a hammer. If you cleaned the slot the JB will stay in there, but it will not stick to the wax on the key. May need to clean up a little with a file in the holes if some JB oozed out. Leave the woodruff keys in the slots. Use the file to clean up any JB that oozed out.

Everything should fit right back together. Been using mine like this for 20+ years

Good Luck
 
looks a like the thrust bearing has failed also as the spindle is showing a lot on the top side. Might replace that before you weld it. #39 The top of the spindle looks odd like maybe its the wrong spindle or an aftermarket spindle?? Maybe not?
 

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